from the water； the long line of surf broke on the shore not in snow；
but in a long drift of greenish fire。
The Kinta is a steam…launch of the Perak Government。 Her boilers； to
use an expressive Japanese phrase； are 〃very sick；〃 and she is not
nearly so fine as the Abdulsamat； but a quiet； peaceful boat； without
any pretensions； and really any 〃old tub〃 is safe on the Straits of
Malacca except in a 〃Sumatran。〃 I stayed on deck for some time enjoying
the exquisite loveliness of the night； and the vivacity of two of my
companions； Mr。 Maxwell； the Assistant Resident here； a really able and
most energetic man； very argumentative； bright； and pleasant； and
Captain Walker； A。D。C。 to Sir W。 Robinson； on his way from the
ceaseless gayeties of Government House at Singapore to take command of
the Sikh military police in the solitary jungles of Perak。 The third；
Mr。 Innes； Superintendent of Lower Perak； whose wife so nearly lost her
life in the horrible affair at Pulo Pangkor； was in dejected spirits；
as if the swamps of Durion Sabatang had been too much for him。
The little cabin below was frightfully hot； and I shared it not only
with two nice Malay boys； sons of the exiled Abdullah； the late Sultan；
who are being educated at Malacca； but with a number of large and
rampant rats。 Finding the heat and rats unbearable； I went on deck in
the rosy dawn； just as we were entering the Larut river； a muddy
stream； flowing swiftly between dense jungles and mangrove swamps； and
shores of shining slime； on which at low water the alligators bask in
the sunone of the many rivers of the Peninsula which do not widen at
their mouths。
The tide was high and the river brimming full； looking as if it must
drown all the forest； and the trestle…work roots on which the mangroves
are hoisted were all submerged。 It is a silent； lonely land； all
densely green。 Many an uprooted palm with its golden plumes and wealth
of golden husked nuts came floating down on the swirling waters； and
many a narrow creek well suited for murder； overarched with trees； and
up which one might travel far and still be among mangrove swamps and
alligators； came down into the Larut river； and once we passed a small
clearing； where some industrious Chinamen are living in huts on some
festering slime between the river and the jungle； and once a police
station on stilts； where six policemen stood in a row and saluted as we
passed； and at seven we reached Teluk Kartang； with a pier； a long
shed； two or three huts； and some officialism； white and partly white；
all in a 〃dismal swamp。〃 A small but very useful Chinese trading
steamer； the Sri Sarawak； was lying against the pier； and we landed
over her filthy deck； on which filthy Chinese swine； among half…naked
men almost as filthy； were wrangling for decomposing offal。 Dismal as
this place looks； an immense trade in imports and exports is done
there； and all the tin from the rich mines of the district is sent
thence to Pinang for transhipment。
While my friends transacted business； I waited for an age in an empty
office where was one chair； a table dark with years of ink splotches； a
mouldy inkstand； a piece of an old almanac； and an empty gin bottle。
Outside； cockle…shells were piled against the wall； then there were
ditches or streamlets cutting through profuse and almost loathsome
vegetation； and shining slime fat and iridescent； swarming with
loathsome forms of insect and reptile life all rioting under the fierce
sun； and among them； almost odious by proximity to such vileness； were
small crabs with shells of a heavenly blue。 The strong vegetable stench
was nearly overpowering； but I wrote to you and worked at your
embroidery a little； and so got through this detention pleasantly； as
through many a longer； though never a hotter one。
After a time three gharries arrived； and Mr。 Innes and I went in one；
the two other gentlemen in another； and Sultan Abdullah's boys in the
third。 No amount of world…wide practice in the getting in and out of
strange vehicles is any help to the tortuous process necessary for
mounting and dismounting from a Larut gharrie。 A gharrie is a two…
wheeled cart with a seat across it for two people and a board in front
on which the driver sits when he is not running by his horse。 This
board and the low roof which covers the whole produce the complication
in getting in and out。 The bottom of the cart is filled up with grass
and leaves； and you put your feet on the board in front； and the little
rats of fiery Sumatra ponies； which will run till they drop； jolt you
along at great speed。 Klings； untroubled by much clothing； own and
drive these vehicles； which are increasing rapidly。 The traffic on the
road of heavy buffalo carts； loaded with tin； cuts it up so badly that
without care one might often be thrown upon the pony's back at the
river end of it。
Near the port we met three elephants； the centre one of great size；
rolling along； one of them with a mahout seated behind his great
flapping ears。 These are part of the regalia of the deposed Sultan； and
were sent down from the interior for me and my baggage。 The smallest of
them would have carried me and my 〃Gladstone bag〃 and canvas roll。 The
first sight of 〃elephants at home〃 is impressive； but they are
fearfully ugly； and their rolling gait does not promise well for the
ease of my future journey。
We passed through a swampy； but busy…looking Chinese village； masculine
almost solely； where Chinamen were building gharries and selling all
such things as Chinese coolies buy； just the same there as everywhere；
and at home there as everywhere； yellow； lean； smooth…shaven； keen；
industrious； self…reliant； sober； mercenary； reliable； mysterious；
opium…smoking； gambling； hugging clan ties； forming no others； and
managing their own matters even to the post and money…order offices；
through which they are constantly sending money to the interior of
China。 I hope that it is not true that they look at us； as a singularly
able and highly educated Chinaman lately said to me that they do； as
〃the incarnation of brute force allied to brute vices！〃 This is a
Chinese region； so the degression is excusable。
It was bright and hot； the glorious； equable equatorial heat； and when
we got out of the mangrove swamps through which the road is causewayed；
there was fine tropical foliage； and the trees were festooned with a
large； blue Thunbergia of great beauty。 It is eight miles from the
landing at Teluk Kartang to Taipeng； where the British Residency is。
The road crosses uninteresting level country； but every jolt brings one
nearer to the Hijan mountains； which rise picturesquely from the plain
to a height of over three thousand feet。 In the distance there is an
extraordinary 〃butte〃 or isolated hill； Gunong Pondok； a landmark for
the whole region； and on the right to the east a grand mountain range；
the highest peak of which cannot fall far short of eight thousand feet；
and the blue…green ranges showing the foam of at least one waterfall
almost helped one to be cool。
We reached Permatang； another Chinese village of some pretensions and
population； near which are two very large two…storied Malay houses in
some disrepair； in which the wife of the banished Mentri of Larut
lives； with a number of slaves。 A quantity of mirthful…looking slave
girls were standing behind the window bars looking at us
surreptitiously。 We alighted at the house of Mr。 Wynne； the Government
Agent； who at once said something courteous and hospitable about
breakfast； which I was longing for； but after I had had a bath I found
that we were to pursue our journey； I regretting for the second time
already Mr。 Maxwell's abstemiousness and power of going without food！
From this point we drove along an excellent road toward the mountains；
over whose cool summits cloud mists now and then drifted； and near noon
entered this important Chinese town； with a street about a mile long；
with large bazaars and shops making a fine appearance； being much
decorated in Chinese style； halls of meeting for the different tribes；
gambling houses； workshops； the Treasury （a substantial dark wood
building）； large detached barracks for the Sikh police； a hospital； a
powder magazine； a parade ground； a Government store…house； a large；
new jail； neat bungalows for the minor English officials； and on the
top of a steep； isolated terraced hill； the British Residency。 This
hill is really too steep for a vehicle to ascend； but the plucky pony
and the Kling driver together pulled the gharrie up the zigzags in a
series of spasms； and I was glad to get out of the sunshine into a
cool； airy house； where there was a hope of breakfast； or rather
tiffin。
The Residency is large and lofty； and thoroughly draughty； a high
commendation so near the equator。 It consists of a room about thirty
feet wide by sixty long； and about twenty feet high at its highest
part； open at both ends； the front end a great bow window without glass
opening on an immense veranda。 This room and its veranda are like the
fore cabin of a great Clyde steamer。 It has a red screen standing
partly across it； the back part being used for eating； and the front
for sitting and occupation。 My bedroom and sitting…room； and the room
in which Sultan Abdullah's boys sleep are on one side； and Mr。
Maxwell's room and office on the other。 Underneath are bath…rooms； and
guard…rooms for the Sikh sentries。 There are no ornaments or
superfluities。 There are two simple meals daily； with tea and bananas
at 7 A。M。； and afternoon tea at 5 P。M。 Mr。 Maxwell is most abstemious；
and is energetically at work from an early hour in the morning。 There
is a perpetual coming and going of Malays； and an air of business
without fuss。 There is a Chinese 〃housemaid；〃 who found a snake； four
feet long； coiled up under my down quilt yesterday； and a Malay butler；
but I have not seen any other domestic。
Those boys of Sultan Abdullah's are the most amusing children I ever
saw。 They are nine and twelve years old； with monkey…like；
irrepressible faces。 They have no ballast。 They talk ceaselessly； and
are very playful and witty； but though a large sum is being paid for
their educ