We left Tewfikeeyah at 11 o'clock； we have therefore been twenty…seven
days to the spot at the dubba that we should reach this evening。 Last
year we left Khartoum on 8th February； and we arrived at the station in
the following order：
〃February 15thFashoda。 16thSobat junction。 18thBahr Giraffe
junction。 March 2ndarrived at the forest beyond Kutchuk Ali's station。
This is the same spot where we overtook Raouf Bey last night； he having
left Tewfikeeyah on 11th December。 Thus he has been twenty…six days from
Tewfikeeyah in reaching the spot this year which he arrived at from the
great distance of Khartoum in our former voyage in twenty…two days！ Last
year the fleet was fourteen days on the voyage from the Sobat to the
above spot； this year they have been twenty…six days！ I believe
thoroughly that they delay purposely； in the hope of thwarting the
expedition。
〃Last year the whole fleet assembled at the dubba in twenty days from
Fashoda。
〃We arrived at the dubba at 5。30 P。M。； having been delayed two hours by
obstructions and rapids。
〃January 8。We cut through a horrid accumulation of floating rafts that
have filled the open space of last year between the dubba and the mouth
of our old channel。 This being completed； I ordered the boats to keep in
close line until the arrival of the main body； otherwise the floating
rafts would again block up the channel should the boats proceed。
〃January 9。Hauled the dingy over the marsh； and explored the old
channel for a distance of fifty minutes。 Thank goodness； this was clear
to that point； a distance of about two miles； but at length we were
stopped by vegetation。 The latter is of a light character； and can be
easily removed。 Clouds of mosquitoes； the dew very heavy at night。
〃Shot a Baleniceps Rex； with rifle。
〃January 10。At day…break we distinguished eight sail on the northern
horizon。
〃January 11。Brisk north wind。 Raouf Bey arrived in the evening。
〃January 12。Started and passed the choked river with much difficulty；
and entered the channel of last year's clearing。
〃January 13。We only made about two miles yesterday and to…day； being
stopped by vegetation。
〃January 14。Cutting partially； but the channel is much improved since
last year。 Made two and a half miles。
〃January 15。Made three…quarters of a mile； and having reached the lake
Timsah （crocodile lake） we found the river blocked up； we therefore cut
our way into an open but shallow channel which last year was impassable
from want of depth。
〃January 16。…The diahbeeah went ahead； but the steamer and heavy vessels
were much delayed by shallows。 I went on and determined upon the
passage； the open lake being visible about 600 yards distant。
〃January 17。…Made about 300 yards of heavy cutting through rafts of
vegetation。 The lake of last year nearly choked up； about 100 acres of
rafts having completely destroyed it。
〃January 18。…Cut about 350 yards； and at 3。30 p。m。 we entered the lake。
From the mast…head it appears that an unbroken sheet of water now exists
for some miles。 I trust this may be true； and that no mirage deceives
us。
〃January 19。…Sailed four miles； at which place we found a new channel
coming from the south； while our channel of last year from south…east
appeared to be closed at half a mile distance。 Explored the new channel
for about two miles； in appearance it was a river of 200 or 300 yards
wide。 At length we arrived at a sudd of small dimensions with open water
beyond。 We returned to the junction； and passed the night at a sudd half
a mile up our old channel。
〃January 20。…At 7 a。m。 I took the dingy； and with much difficulty pushed
about a mile through the grass until I found the whole country closed by
vegetation。 I think the river has opened a new channel； and that the
passage of yesterday will take us to nearly the same spot above the sudd
that we reached by another route last year。
〃Many vessels having arrived； I visited the Englishmen and physicked
Ramsall and Mr。 Higginbotham。 At 4。15 p。m。 we started； poling round the
angle to enter the new channel discovered yesterday。 In the evening we
all sailed with a light breeze； and found the river open for three and a
half miles ahead。 Halted for the night。
〃January 21。…The river being closed ahead； I took the dingy； and after
much trouble succeeded in reaching our old channel in the clear river。
Having started at 7 a。m。； I returned at 1 p。m。 I had sounded the channel
the whole distance； and I have determined to cut a passage through
to…morrow。
〃January 22。…Cut 350 yards through heavy sudd。 Last year this piece was
600 yards。 We at length reached the small lake where we last year buried
the two artillerymen in an ant…hill。
〃January 23。…I took the diahbeeah a mile and a quarter up the river；
while the fleet was being squeezed through our spongy channel。
〃January 24。…Yesterday the five vessels that were left behind by Raouf
Bey arrived； and the fleet assembled。
〃I am in great anxiety about Tayib Agha who has twelve vessels with him；
none of which are yet in sight。
〃This black colonel is not clever； and should an accident occur； he will
be at a loss how to act。 Julian is unwell with fever； but Higginbotham
is better。
〃I went a long way in the dingy； and succeeded in finding the true
channel of the stream by probing with the twelve…foot pole through the
grass。 To…morrow we shall begin cutting； as the whole country is closed。
〃The tree that marks the open water of last year is about a mile and a
half distant。 There is a solitary dry spot near this； the heart of
desolationa tumulus of about half an acre； like the back of a huge
tortoise； is raised about five feet above the highest water level。 Upon
this crocodiles love to bask in undisturbed sleep。
〃January 25。…The men cut about 300 yards。
〃January 26。…We again accomplished about 300 yards； and pushed the
vessels within the channel。
〃January 27。…We are thankful for a comparatively open ditch； deep； but
covered with grass； through which the diahbeeah cut her path by sailing
before a strong breeze； and we entered the lake at 11。20 a。m。 There is
no change here since last year。 The steamer and fleet are close up； but
there is a little deepening necessary at the mouth of the channel。 The
diahbeeah went ahead for six miles along the lake and broad river； and
anchored for the night。
〃January 28。…With a light breeze； the diahbeeah sailed four miles； and
stopped at the three dubbas； whence we turned back last year。 Even now
there is only three feet and a half of water； and we shall have great
trouble。 Our fisherman； Howarti； caught a great haul of fine boulti with
the casting…net。
〃January 29。…I shot some ducks and geese。 A slight shower fell in early
morning。 I explored about seven miles of the river in advance。 The depth
is very unsatisfactory； varying from shallows to deep channels。
〃January 30。…The fleet joined in sections during last night and to…day。
Set to work with the long…handled hoes； and cut a channel through the
shallows for fifty yards； and took the vessels forward。
〃January 31。…Cut a channel through the shallows； but we could not get
the steamer along。
〃February 1。…About 1；200 men at work cutting a channel and towing the
steamer and noggurs through。 The diahbeeah and two noggurs passed ahead
for about a mile。 We then stopped to await the steamer and other vessels
that were delayed by the powerful current。
〃February 2。…Stopped all day waiting for the steamer about a mile ahead
of the noggurs。 When we left the dubba； I had left a letter in a bottle；
addressed to Tayib Agha； to order him to come on without delay； and
deepen the channels we have cut； should it be necessary。
〃February 3。…The steamer came up at 10 a。m。 At 10。45 the diahbeeah made
sail； and after two miles was delayed by a small sudd。 Care must be
taken to sail by the west branch of the two streams； as there is no
water in the east channel。
〃For six miles we have had nothing but shallows。 Even at this season
there is only a depth of four feet in many places； and a month hence the
river will be impassable。
〃Tayib Agha's boats are in sight； about four miles distance； bearing
north。 We cut through the small sudd； and in a quarter of a mile； we
arrived at an open water； very shallow： in many places only three feet
deep。 Stopped for the fleet； and upon arrival of the steamer and others；
I had marked out the channel to be cleared。 The men set to work
immediately。 I then passed ahead with the diahbeeah for about a mile and
a half； the depth of water； as usual； varying； but often as low as four
feet。 We were at length stopped at the confluence of two channels； each
shallow。 The sun was setting； therefore we halted for the night。 A
buffalo crossed the river about 200 yards ahead。
〃February 4。…I took the dingy early in the morning and explored both
channels； that on the right has no water beyond a depth of about two
feet。 The left is the true stream； but the depth in some places is only
three feet； thus there is more work for the men upon their arrival。 Had
we arrived here a month earlier； we could have just passed the shallows；
as our vessels draw an average of a little over four feet。 No vessels
should arrive here later than 1st of January； the entire river is a
ridiculous imposition； a month later； the bed will be nearly dry。 A mile
ahead； both channels are closed by a sudd of vegetation； we must thus
await until the boats arrive。 Altogether the entire journey by the Bahr
Giraffe is a painful absurdity； and my expedition will be fruitless in
all but geographical results unless the authorities of the Soudan will
clear the main channel of the White Nile。
〃February 5。…None of the vessels arrived yesterday。 I went back and
found them in a terrible fix； as the water is leaving us rapidly； and we
must cut a fresh channel through the sand； about one hundred yards long。
〃February 6。…I took the diahbeeah a mile and a quarter ahead to a sudd；
passing over several shallows of only two feet eight inches； and three
feet； which will again cause great delay and labour。 I returned to the
fleet and assisted in the tedious work of dragging the vessels over the
shallows。 In th