fleet and assisted in the tedious work of dragging the vessels over the
shallows。 In the evening I returned to the diahbeeah； and having dragged
the dingy across the sudd； I explored the channel ahead for an hour； for
about three miles； passed over distressing shallows for a space of a
quarter of a mile ahead of the diahbeeah； after which I entered a deep；
narrow channel with very rapid current。
〃It is quite impossible to say where we are as the professed guides seem
to know nothing of this horrible chaos； which changes its appearance
constantly。 It is most harassing。
〃February 7。…Last evening I brought the diahbeeah back to the fleet； so
as to push the work forward personally。 The soldiers and officers hope
we shall return as failures； in the same manner as last year。 I have；
therefore； informed them and Raouf Bey officially； that no boats shall
retreat； but that should the river run dry； they shall remain here until
the rise of the water during the next wet season； when they shall go on
to Wat…el…Shambi。 This decision has frightened them； and they are
working to…day with better spirit。
〃I unpacked and served out a hundred spades for digging channels； and I
have ordered them to commence to…morrow morning and dig out a straight
passage for the thirty one vessels that still remain in the shallows。
〃February 8。…This is the date of departure last year from Khartoum； an
inconceivable madness had any one known the character of the river。 All
hands as usual tugging； hauling； and deepening the river with spades and
hoes； but the more we dig； the faster the water runs out of the bed；
which threatens to leave us high and dry。
〃February 9…The work as usual。 All hands thoroughly disgusted。 I am
obliged to lighten the vessels by discharging cargo in the mud。 Our
waggons make excellent platforms for the luggage。 Even with this
assistance we only drew seven vessels through the shallows into the true
river channel。
〃To…morrow we must discharge more cargo。
〃The anxiety of leading 1；600 men； and fifty…eight vessels with heavy
cargoes； through this horrible country is very distressing。
〃When I shall have succeeded in dragging the vessels into the true
channel； I shall construct a dam in the rear； so as to retain the water
at a higher level。 I have no doubt that a series of such dams will be
required to enable us to reach the Nile。 Should it be impossible to
proceed with the heavy vessels； I shall leave them thatched over as
floating stores； with a small guard； until the next wet season shall
raise the river level。
〃February 10。…I gave orders to discharge all cargoes； so that no vessel
should draw more than three feet。 All hands are now employed at this
work； as it is impossible to cut a channel through the sand； which fills
in as fast as it is deepened。
〃February 11。…Twenty…seven vessels passed the diahbeeah； having
lightened their cargoes； these vessels must discharge everything at
Khor； one and a half mile ahead； and return to fetch the remaining
baggage。 The work is tremendous； and the risk great。 The damage of
stores is certain； and should a heavy shower fall； which the cloudy
state of the weather renders probable； the whole of our stores； now
lying on the soft mud； will be destroyed。
〃To…day I cut a deeper channel near the diahbeeah； and divided the men
into gangs on the various shallow spots； to tow each boat past as she
may arrive。 The steamer is hard and fast； although she has discharged
everything； and she must be literally dug out of the passage。〃
March 9。…From Feb。 11 to this date we had toiled through every species
of difficulty。 The men had cut one straight line of canal through a
stiff clay for a distance of 600 yards。 Many were sick； some had died；
there appeared to be no hope。 It was in vain that I endeavoured to cheer
both officers and men with tales and assurances of the promised land
before them； should they only reach the Nile。 They had worked like
slaves in these fetid marshes until their spirits were entirely
broken；the Egyptians had ceased to care whether they lived or died。
The enormous quantity of machinery； iron sections of steamers； supplies；
&c。； had actually been discharged from fifty…eight vessels。 The river
had fallen still lower； and upon the quickly sun…baked surface I made a
road； and having set up my waggons； I conveyed the great mass of cargo
across the land by a short cut； and thus reached my long line of
vessels； and reloaded them after great labour。 The waggons were then
taken to pieces and re…shipped。 It would be wearying to give the journal
of every incident during this trying period； but from the description
already given； the fatigue and anxiety may be imagined。 Thank God； I
seemed to bear a charmed life。 From morning till night I was exploring
in a small boat through mud and marsh； but I was completely fever…proof。
My wife was also well。 Lieutenant Baker and Mr。 Higginbotham had
suffered frequently from fever； but these energetic officers rendered me
most important service。 While I was ahead exploring； sounding； and
planning out the route； Lieutenant Baker was commanding and directing
the steamer； which appeared more like a huge stranded whale among the
rushes than an object adapted for the navigation of this horrible
country。 I had a first…rate crew on my diahbeeah； and some picked men of
the 〃Forty Thieves〃 who always accompanied me。 The best and most devoted
man that I have ever seen was a corporal of the 〃Forty Thieves〃 named
Monsoor。 This man was a Copt （Christian descendant of the true
Egyptians）； he was rather short； but exceedingly powerful； he swam and
dived like an otter； and never seemed to feel fatigue。 He was always in
good health； very courageous； and he accompanied me like my own shadow；
he seemed to watch over me as a mother would regard an only child。 In
fact； this excellent man appeared to have only one thought and object。
I had been as usual exploring far ahead of the toiling and labouring
fleet； when； after pulling our little boat with the aid of fourteen men
for several hours over a great mass of high floating grass； we suddenly
emerged upon open water。 We at once took to our boat； and hoisted the
sprit…sail。 The men stowed themselves as ballast in the bottom。 The wind
was strong from the north； and we travelled at about five miles per
hour； the lake expanding as we rounded a promontory until it attained a
width of about half a mile。 Following the course of the lake for about
five miles； we found a river flowing directly into the long…sought
channel。 Only one mile and a quarter from the lake； by this small river；
we entered the great White Nile！ I cannot describe my joy and
thankfulness。 My men shared my feelings。 We all drank water from the
turbid river； so unlike the marsh…filtered water of the swamps； and as
each man washed his hands and face in the noble stream； he ejaculated
from his heart； 〃El hambd el Illah！〃 （〃Thank God！〃） I also thanked God。
It was an hour after dark when we returned that night； after much
difficulty； to my diahbeeah； to which we were guided by a lantern at the
mast…head； thoughtfully placed there by my wife's orders。 The good news
made all happy。 We had actually that day drunk water from the White
Nile！
The great difficulty remained of bringing the larger vessels into the
lake that communicated with the river。 After all the labour of the last
two months； I had succeeded in assembling the entire fleet in a sort of
shallow pond； from which there was actually no exit。 I had certainly
escaped from this place by dragging the little dingy over about a mile
of frightful sudd； but although this sudd covered deep water； it
appeared to be shut out from us by solid mud； through which numerous
streams percolated； the largest of which was about three feet broad and
six inches deep。 These small drains concentrated in a narrow ditch；
which was the principal feeder of the pond； in which； with such infinite
trouble； the fleet had been assembled。 It was an anxious moment； as it
would be necessary to cut a canal through solid mud for a great distance
before we could reach the lake； and as we had made a free exit for the
water behind us； while it only slowly oozed through before us； we stood
a fair chance of being left helplessly around。
On the following morning； the good news of the discovery of the White
Nile flew through the expedition。 Many did not believe it； but
considered it was a dodge to induce them to extra exertion。 I
immediately gave orders for a channel to be opened through the mud and
large obstruction into the lake。 After some days' hard work； a passage
was completed that was sufficiently deep to admit the diahbeeah。 It
required a whole day to force her through this narrow channel； and in
the evening we entered the lake； and hoisted the flag at the end of the
tall yard； as a signal to the fleet that we had accomplished the
passage。
It was now only necessary to work hard and improve the channel
sufficiently to admit the passage of the steamer and heavier vessels。
Unfortunately my fears had proved correct； the fleet was hard and fast
aground！ The steamer was so helplessly deserted by the water； that she
would have served for a Nilometer upon which to mark the level； like the
rock at Assouan。 It was simply impossible to move her； as she was as
solidly fixed as a church。 Every other vessel of the fleet stood high
out of the water； which had run out by the clear channel we had opened
in the rear。
The officers and men were in consternation。 With the prize within our
grasp； it would be physically impossible to proceed Those sort of people
are soon disheartened； and I made great allowance for them； as the work
of the last two months had been sufficient to destroy all energy。
I at once determined to make a dam behind the vessels so as to inclose
the position in which we lay like a mill pond。 Common sense assured me
that this must succeed in raising the level； provided we could construct
a dam of sufficient strength to bear the pressure of water。
I had a great quantity of fir timber in the shape of beams and rafters
for building purposes。 I therefore instructed Mr。 Higginbotham to
prepare two