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water¡£¡¡Instead¡¡of¡¡this£»¡¡the¡¡vessels¡¡were¡¡delayed£»¡¡in¡¡the¡¡absence¡¡of¡¡the
Khedive¡¡in¡¡Europe£»¡¡until¡¡29th¡¡August£»¡¡thus£»¡¡by¡¡the¡¡time¡¡they¡¡reached¡¡the
second¡¡cataract£»¡¡the¡¡river¡¡had¡¡fallen£»¡¡and¡¡it¡¡was¡¡impossible¡¡to¡¡drag¡¡the
¡®steamers¡¡through¡¡the¡¡passage¡¡until¡¡the¡¡next¡¡season¡£¡¡Thus¡¡twelve¡¡months
were¡¡wasted£»¡¡and¡¡I¡¡was¡¡at¡¡once¡¡deprived¡¡of¡¡the¡¡invaluable¡¡aid¡¡of¡¡six
steamers¡£

In¡¡addition¡¡to¡¡this¡¡difficulty¡¡was¡¡the¡¡fact¡¡of¡¡inevitable¡¡delay
necessitated¡¡by¡¡the¡¡festivities¡¡attending¡¡the¡¡opening¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Suez¡¡Canal¡£
The¡¡Khedive£»¡¡with¡¡his¡¡accustomed¡¡hospitality£»¡¡had¡¡made¡¡immense
preparations¡¡for¡¡the¡¡reception¡¡of¡¡visitors£»¡¡and¡¡every¡¡available¡¡vessel
had¡¡been¡¡prepared¡¡for¡¡the¡¡occasion¡£

A¡¡train¡¡of¡¡forty¡­one¡¡railway¡¡waggons¡¡laden¡¡with¡¡sections¡¡of¡¡steamers£»
machinery£»¡¡boiler¡­plates£»¡¡&c¡££»¡¡&c¡££»¡¡arrived¡¡at¡¡Cairo£»¡¡and¡¡were¡¡embarked
on¡¡board¡¡eleven¡¡hired¡¡vessels¡£¡¡With¡¡the¡¡greatest¡¡difficulty¡¡I¡¡procured¡¡a
steamer¡¡of¡¡140¡­horse¡¡power¡¡to¡¡tow¡¡this¡¡flotilla¡¡to¡¡Korosko£»¡¡from¡¡which
spot¡¡the¡¡desert¡¡journey¡¡would¡¡commence¡£¡¡I¡¡obtained¡¡this¡¡steamer¡¡only¡¡by
personal¡¡application¡¡to¡¡the¡¡Khedive¡£

At¡¡length¡¡I¡¡witnessed¡¡the¡¡start¡¡of¡¡the¡¡entire¡¡English¡¡party¡¡of¡¡engineers
and¡¡mechanics£»¡¡together¡¡with¡¡Mr¡£¡¡Higginbotham¡¡and¡¡Dr¡£¡¡J¡£¡¡Gedge¡£¡¡The
steamer¡¡Minieh£»¡¡towed¡¡the¡¡lone¡¡line¡¡of¡¡eleven¡¡vessels¡¡against¡¡the
powerful¡¡stream¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Nile¡£¡¡One¡¡of¡¡the¡¡tow¡­ropes¡¡snipped¡¡at¡¡the
commencement¡¡of¡¡the¡¡voyage£»¡¡which¡¡created¡¡some¡¡confusion£»¡¡but¡¡when
righted¡¡they¡¡quickly¡¡steamed¡£¡¡out¡¡of¡¡view¡£¡¡This¡¡mass¡¡of¡¡heavy¡¡material£»
including¡¡two¡¡steamers£»¡¡and¡¡two¡¡steel¡¡lifeboats¡¡of¡¡ten¡¡tons¡¡each£»¡¡was¡¡to
be¡¡transported¡¡for¡¡a¡¡distance¡¡of¡¡about¡¡3£»000¡¡miles£»¡¡400¡¡of¡¡which¡¡would
be¡¡across¡¡the¡¡scorching¡¡Nubian¡¡deserts£¡

The¡¡first¡¡division¡¡of¡¡the¡¡heavy¡¡baggage¡¡had¡¡started¡¡on¡¡29th¡¡August£»
1869£»¡¡with¡¡the¡¡sloops£»¡¡to¡¡ascend¡¡the¡¡cataracts¡¡direct¡¡by¡¡river¡¡to
Khartoum¡£¡¡I¡¡dared£»¡¡not¡¡trust¡¡any¡¡portions¡¡of¡¡the¡¡steamers¡¡by¡¡this
dangerous¡¡route£»¡¡lest¡¡by¡¡the¡¡loss¡¡of¡¡one¡¡vessel¡¡with¡¡sections¡¡I¡¡might
destroy¡¡all¡¡hope¡¡of¡¡success¡£

It¡¡was¡¡a¡¡relief¡¡to¡¡have¡¡started¡¡the¡¡main¡¡branches¡¡of¡¡the¡¡expedition£»
after¡¡the¡¡various¡¡delays¡¡that¡¡had¡¡already¡¡seriously¡¡endangered¡¡the
chances¡¡of¡¡the¡¡White¡¡Nile¡¡voyage¡£¡¡For¡¡that¡¡river¡¡all¡¡vessels¡¡should
leave¡¡Khartoum¡¡early¡¡in¡¡November¡£

On¡¡5th¡¡December£»¡¡1869£»¡¡we¡¡brought¡¡up¡¡the¡¡rear£»¡¡and¡¡left¡¡Suez¡¡on¡¡board¡¡an
Egyptian¡¡sloop¡¡of¡¡war£»¡¡the¡¡Senaar¡£¡¡In¡¡four¡¡days¡¡and¡¡a¡¡half¡¡we¡¡reached
Souakim£»¡¡after¡¡an¡¡escape¡¡from¡¡wreck¡¡on¡¡the¡¡reef¡¡of¡¡Shadwan£»¡¡and¡¡a¡¡close
acquaintance¡¡with¡¡a¡¡large¡¡barque£»¡¡with¡¡which¡¡we¡¡nearly¡¡came¡¡into
collision¡£

The¡¡captain¡¡of¡¡our¡¡sloop¡¡was¡¡a¡¡most¡¡respectable¡¡man£»¡¡apparently¡¡about
eighty¡¡years¡¡of¡¡age¡£¡¡The¡¡first¡¡lieutenant¡¡appeared¡¡to¡¡be¡¡somewhat¡¡his
senior£»¡¡and¡¡neither¡¡could¡¡see£»¡¡even¡¡with¡¡the¡¡assistance¡¡of¡¡a¡¡very¡¡greasy
and¡¡dirty¡¡binocular¡£¡¡The¡¡various¡¡officers¡¡appeared¡¡to¡¡be¡¡vestiges¡¡from
Noah's¡¡ark¡¡in¡¡point¡¡of¡¡antiquity£»¡¡thus¡¡a¡¡close¡¡shave¡¡with¡¡a¡¡reef¡¡and¡¡a
near¡¡rub¡¡with¡¡a¡¡strange¡¡vessel¡¡were¡¡little¡¡incidents¡¡that¡¡might¡¡be
expected¡¡in¡¡the¡¡Red¡¡Sea¡£

We¡¡anchored¡¡safely¡¡in¡¡the¡¡harbour¡¡of¡¡Souakim£»¡¡and¡¡landed¡¡my¡¡twenty¡­one
horses¡¡without¡¡accident¡£

I¡¡was¡¡met¡¡by¡¡the¡¡governor£»¡¡my¡¡old¡¡friend¡¡Moomtazz¡¡Bey£»¡¡a¡¡highly
intelligent¡¡Circassian¡¡officer£»¡¡who¡¡had¡¡shown¡¡me¡¡much¡¡kindness¡¡on¡¡my
former¡¡expedition¡£

A¡¡week's¡¡delay¡¡in¡¡Souakim¡¡was¡¡necessary¡¡to¡¡obtain¡¡camels¡£¡¡In¡¡fourteen
days¡¡we¡¡crossed¡¡the¡¡desert¡¡275¡¡miles¡¡to¡¡Berber¡¡on¡¡the¡¡Nile£»¡¡and¡¡found¡¡a
steamer¡¡and¡¡diahbeeah¡¡in¡¡readiness¡£¡¡We¡¡arrived¡¡at¡¡Khartoum£»¡¡a¡¡distance
of¡¡200¡¡miles¡¡by¡¡river£»¡¡in¡¡three¡¡days£»¡¡having¡¡accomplished¡¡the¡¡voyage
from¡¡Suez¡¡in¡¡the¡¡short¡¡space¡¡of¡¡thirty¡­two¡¡days£»¡¡including¡¡stoppages¡£

Khartoum¡¡was¡¡not¡¡changed¡¡externally£»¡¡but¡¡I¡¡had¡¡observed¡¡with¡¡dismay¡¡a
frightful¡¡change¡¡in¡¡the¡¡features¡¡of¡¡the¡¡country¡¡between¡¡Berber¡¡and¡¡the
capital¡¡since¡¡my¡¡former¡¡visit¡£¡¡The¡¡rich¡¡soil¡¡on¡¡the¡¡banks¡¡of¡¡the¡¡river£»
which¡¡had¡¡a¡¡few¡¡years¡¡since¡¡been¡¡highly¡¡cultivated£»¡¡was¡¡abandoned¡£¡¡Now
and¡¡then¡¡a¡¡tuft¡¡of¡¡neglected¡¡date¡­palms¡¡might¡¡be¡¡seen£»¡¡but¡¡the¡¡river's
banks£»¡¡formerly¡¡verdant¡¡with¡¡heavy¡¡crops£»¡¡had¡¡become¡¡a¡¡wilderness¡£
Villages¡¡once¡¡crowded¡¡had¡¡entirely¡¡disappeared£»¡¡the¡¡population¡¡was¡¡gone¡£
Irrigation¡¡had¡¡ceased¡£¡¡The¡¡night£»¡¡formerly¡¡discordant¡¡with¡¡the¡¡creaking
of¡¡countless¡¡water¡­wheels£»¡¡was¡¡now¡¡silent¡¡as¡¡death¡£¡¡There¡¡was¡¡not¡¡a¡¡dog
to¡¡howl¡¡for¡¡a¡¡lost¡¡master¡£¡¡Industry¡¡had¡¡vanished£»¡¡oppression¡¡had¡¡driven
the¡¡inhabitants¡¡from¡¡the¡¡soil¡£

This¡¡terrible¡¡desolation¡¡was¡¡caused¡¡by¡¡the¡¡governor¡¡general¡¡of¡¡the
Soudan£»¡¡who£»¡¡although¡¡himself¡¡an¡¡honest¡¡man£»¡¡trusted¡¡too¡¡much¡¡to¡¡the
honesty¡¡of¡¡others£»¡¡who¡¡preyed¡¡upon¡¡the¡¡inhabitants¡£¡¡As¡¡a¡¡good¡¡and¡¡true
Mohammedan£»¡¡he¡¡left¡¡his¡¡territory¡¡to¡¡the¡¡care¡¡of¡¡God£»¡¡and¡¡thus£»¡¡trusting
in¡¡Providence£»¡¡he¡¡simply¡¡increased¡¡the¡¡taxes¡£¡¡In¡¡one¡¡year¡¡he¡¡sent¡¡to¡¡the
Khedive¡¡his¡¡master¡¡100£»000¡¡pounds¡¡in¡¡hard¡¡dollars£»¡¡wrung¡¡from¡¡the¡¡poor
peasantry£»¡¡who¡¡must¡¡have¡¡lost¡¡an¡¡equal¡¡amount¡¡in¡¡the¡¡pillage¡¡that
accompanies¡¡the¡¡collection¡£

The¡¡population¡¡of¡¡the¡¡richest¡¡province¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Soudan¡¡fled¡¡from
oppression£»¡¡and¡¡abandoned¡¡the¡¡country£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡greater¡¡portion¡¡betook
themselves¡¡to¡¡the¡¡slave¡¡trade¡¡of¡¡the¡¡White¡¡Nile£»¡¡where£»¡¡in¡¡their¡¡turn£»
they¡¡might¡¡trample¡¡upon¡¡the¡¡rights¡¡of¡¡others£»¡¡where£»¡¡as¡¡they¡¡had¡¡been
plundered£»¡¡they¡¡would¡¡be¡¡able¡¡to¡¡plunder£»¡¡where¡¡they¡¡could¡¡reap¡¡the
harvest¡¡of¡¡another's¡¡labour£»¡¡and¡¡where£»¡¡free¡¡from¡¡the¡¡restrictions¡¡of¡¡a
government£»¡¡they¡¡might¡¡indulge¡¡in¡¡the¡¡exciting¡¡and¡¡lucrative¡¡enterprise
of¡¡slave¡­hunting¡£¡¡Thousands¡¡had¡¡forsaken¡¡their¡¡homes£»¡¡and¡¡commenced¡¡a
life¡¡of¡¡brigandage¡¡on¡¡the¡¡White¡¡Nile¡£

This¡¡was¡¡the¡¡state¡¡of¡¡the¡¡country¡¡when¡¡I¡¡arrived¡¡at¡¡Khartoum¡£¡¡The
population¡¡of¡¡this¡¡town£»¡¡which¡¡was¡¡about¡¡30£»000¡¡during¡¡my¡¡former¡¡visit£»
was¡¡now¡¡reduced¡¡to¡¡half¡¡the¡¡number¡£¡¡The¡¡European¡¡residents¡¡had¡¡all
disappeared£»¡¡with¡¡the¡¡exception¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Austrian¡¡Mission£»¡¡and¡¡Mr¡£¡¡Hansall
the¡¡Austrian¡¡Consul£»¡¡also¡¡an¡¡extremely¡¡tough¡¡German¡¡tailor£»¡¡who¡¡was
proof¡¡against¡¡the¡¡climate¡¡that¡¡had¡¡carried¡¡off¡¡his¡¡companions¡£

I¡¡had¡¡given¡¡the¡¡necessary¡¡orders¡¡for¡¡vessels¡¡and¡¡supplies¡¡six¡¡months
previous£»¡¡thus£»¡¡I¡¡naturally¡¡expected¡¡to¡¡find¡¡a¡¡fleet¡¡ready¡¡for
departure£»¡¡with¡¡the¡¡troops¡¡and¡¡stores¡¡waiting¡¡for¡¡instructions¡£¡¡To¡¡my
surprise£»¡¡I¡¡discovered¡¡that¡¡my¡¡orders¡¡had¡¡been¡¡so¡¡far¡¡neglected£»¡¡that
although¡¡the¡¡troops¡¡were¡¡at¡¡hand£»¡¡there¡¡were¡¡no¡¡vessels¡¡prepared¡¡for
transport¡£¡¡I¡¡was¡¡coolly¡¡informed¡¡by¡¡the¡¡governor¡­general¡¡that¡¡¡¨it¡¡was
impossible¡¡to¡¡procure¡¡the¡¡number¡¡of¡¡vessels¡¡required£»¡¡therefore¡¡he¡¡had
purchased¡¡a¡¡house¡¡for¡¡me£»¡¡as¡¡he¡¡expected¡¡that¡¡I¡¡should¡¡remain¡¡that¡¡year
at¡¡Khartoum£»¡¡and¡¡start¡¡in¡¡the¡¡following¡¡season¡£¡¨

There¡¡literally¡¡was¡¡not¡¡one¡¡vessel¡¡ready¡¡for¡¡the¡¡voyage£»¡¡in¡¡spite¡¡of¡¡the
positive¡¡instructions¡¡that¡¡had¡¡been¡¡given¡£¡¡At¡¡the¡¡same¡¡time¡¡I¡¡found¡¡that
the¡¡governor¡­general¡¡had¡¡just¡¡prepared¡¡a¡¡squadron¡¡of¡¡eleven¡¡vessels£»
with¡¡several¡¡companies¡¡of¡¡regular¡¡troops£»¡¡for¡¡an¡¡expedition¡¡to¡¡the¡¡Bahr
Gazal£»¡¡where¡¡it¡¡was¡¡intended¡¡to¡¡form¡¡a¡¡settlement¡¡at¡¡the¡¡copper¡­mines¡¡on
the¡¡frontier¡¡of¡¡Darfur¡£¡¡This¡¡expedition¡¡had¡¡been¡¡placed¡¡under¡¡the
command¡¡of¡¡one¡¡of¡¡the¡¡most¡¡notorious¡¡ruffians¡¡and¡¡slave¡­hunters¡¡of¡¡the
White¡¡Nile¡£¡¡This¡¡man£»¡¡Kutchuk¡¡Ali£»¡¡originally¡¡of¡¡low¡¡extraction£»¡¡had
made¡¡a¡¡fortune¡¡in¡¡his¡¡abominable¡¡traffic£»¡¡and¡¡had¡¡accordingly¡¡received
promotion¡¡from¡¡the¡¡governor£»¡¡thus£»¡¡at¡¡the¡¡same¡¡time¡¡that¡¡the¡¡Khedive¡¡of
Egypt¡¡had¡¡employed¡¡me¡¡to¡¡suppress¡¡the¡¡slave¡¡trade¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Nile£»¡¡a
government¡¡expedition¡¡had¡¡been¡¡intrusted¡¡to¡¡the¡¡command¡¡of¡¡one¡¡of¡¡the
most¡¡notorious¡¡slave¡­hunters¡£

I¡¡at¡¡once¡¡perceived¡¡that¡¡not¡¡only¡¡was¡¡my¡¡expedition¡¡unpopular£»¡¡but¡¡that
it¡¡would¡¡be¡¡seriously¡¡opposed¡¡by¡¡all¡¡parties¡£¡¡The¡¡troops¡¡had¡¡been
quartered¡¡for¡¡some¡¡months¡¡at¡¡Khartoum£»¡¡during¡¡this¡¡time¡¡the¡¡officers¡¡had
been¡¡intimate¡¡with¡¡the¡¡principal¡¡slave¡­traders¡¡of¡¡the¡¡country¡£¡¡All¡¡were
Mohammedansthus¡¡a¡¡coalition¡¡would¡¡be¡¡natural¡¡against¡¡a¡¡Christian¡¡who
commanded¡¡an¡¡expedition¡¡avowedly¡¡to¡¡annihilate¡¡the¡¡slave¡¡trade¡¡upon
which¡¡Khartoum¡¡subsisted¡£

It¡¡was¡¡a¡¡¡¨house¡¡divided¡¡against¡¡itself£»¡¨¡¡the¡¡Khedive¡¡in¡¡the¡¡north¡¡issued
orders¡¡that¡¡would¡¡be¡¡neutralized¡¡in¡¡the¡¡distant¡¡south¡¡by¡¡his¡¡own
authorities¡£

As¡¡in¡¡the¡¡United¡¡States¡¡of¡¡America¡¡the¡¡opinion¡¡of¡¡the¡¡South¡¡upon¡¡the
question¡¡of¡¡emancipation¡¡was¡¡opposed¡¡to¡¡that¡¡of¡¡the¡¡North£»the
opposition¡¡in¡¡Soudan¡¡was¡¡openly¡¡avowed¡¡to¡¡the¡¡reform¡¡believed¡¡to¡¡have
been¡¡suggested¡¡to¡¡the¡¡Khedive¡¡by¡¡England¡£

The¡¡season¡¡was¡¡already¡¡far¡¡advanced¡£¡¡There¡¡is¡¡no¡¡weapon¡¡so¡¡fatal¡¡as
delay¡¡in¡¡the¡¡hands¡¡of¡¡Egyptians¡£¡¡I¡¡knew¡¡the¡¡intentions¡¡of¡¡the
authorities¡¡were¡¡to¡¡procrastinate¡¡until¡¡the¡¡departure¡¡of¡¡the¡¡expedition
would¡¡become¡¡impossible¡£¡¡It¡¡was¡¡necessary¡¡to¡¡insist¡¡upon¡¡the¡¡immediate
purchase¡¡of¡¡vessels¡¡which¡¡should¡¡have¡¡been¡¡prepared¡¡months¡¡before¡£

None¡¡of¡¡the¡¡steamers¡¡from¡¡Cairo¡¡had¡¡passed¡¡the¡¡cataracts¡£¡¡The¡¡fifteen
large¡¡sloops¡¡upon¡¡which¡¡I¡¡had¡¡depended¡¡for¡¡the¡¡transport¡¡of¡¡camels¡¡had
actually¡¡given¡¡up¡¡the¡¡attempt¡¡and¡¡returned¡¡to¡¡Cairo¡£¡¡Only¡¡the¡¡smaller
vessels¡¡had¡¡mounted¡¡the¡¡cataracts£»¡¡and¡¡they¡¡could¡¡not¡¡arrive¡¡at¡¡Khartoum
for¡¡some¡¡months¡£

The¡¡first¡¡division£»¡¡consisting¡¡of¡¡all¡¡merchandise¡¡that¡¡I¡¡had¡¡sent¡¡from
Cairo£»¡¡had¡¡arrived¡¡in¡¡Khartoum¡¡under¡¡the¡¡charge¡¡of¡¡a¡¡Syrian¡¡to¡¡whom¡¡I
had¡¡given¡¡the¡¡command¡£¡¡I¡¡heard¡¡that¡¡Mr¡£¡¡Higginbotham£»¡¡accompanied¡¡by¡¡Dr¡£
Gedge¡¡and¡¡the¡¡English¡¡party£»¡¡together¡¡with¡¡all¡¡the¡¡Egyptian¡¡mechanics£»
was¡¡on¡¡his¡¡way¡¡across¡¡the¡¡desert¡¡in¡¡charge¡¡of¡¡the¡¡steamers¡¡and
machinery£»¡¡carried¡¡by¡¡some¡¡thousand¡¡camels¡£¡¡The¡¡third¡¡division£»¡¡brought
up¡¡by¡¡Mr¡£¡¡Marcopolo£»¡¡arrived¡¡from¡¡Souakim¡¡a¡¡few¡¡days¡¡later¡¡than
ourselves£»¡¡thus¡¡every¡¡arrangement¡¡that¡¡had¡¡been¡¡intrusted¡¡to¡¡my¡¡own
officers¡¡was¡¡well¡¡executed¡£

After¡¡some¡¡pressure£»¡¡the¡¡governor¡¡began¡¡to¡¡purchase¡¡the¡¡vessels¡£¡¡It¡¡may
be¡¡imagined¡¡that¡¡a¡¡sudden¡¡necessity¡¡gave¡¡a¡¡welcome¡¡opportunity¡¡to
certain¡¡officials¡£¡¡Old¡¡vessels¡¡were¡¡purchased¡¡at¡¡the¡¡price¡¡of¡¡new£»¡¡and
the¡¡government¡¡agent¡¡received¡¡a¡¡bribe¡¡from¡¡the¡¡owners¡¡to¡¡pass¡¡the
vessels¡¡on¡¡survey¡£¡¡We¡¡were¡¡now¡¡fitting¡¡out¡¡under¡¡difficulties£»¡¡and
working¡¡at¡¡a¡¡task¡¡that¡¡should¡¡have¡¡been¡¡accomplished¡¡months¡¡before¡£
Sailcloth¡¡was¡¡scarce£»¡¡hempen¡¡ropes¡¡were¡¡rarities¡¡in¡¡Khartoum£»¡¡where¡¡the
wretched¡¡cordage¡¡was¡¡usually¡¡obtained¡¡from¡¡the¡¡leaves¡¡of¡¡the¡¡date¡­palm¡£
The¡¡highest¡¡prices¡¡were¡¡paid¡¡for¡¡everything£»¡¡thus¡¡a¡¡prearranged¡¡delay
caused¡¡an¡¡immense¡¡expense¡¡for¡¡the¡¡expedition¡£¡¡I¡¡studiously¡¡avoided¡¡any
purchases¡¡personally£»¡¡but¡¡simply¡¡gave¡¡the¡¡necessary¡¡instructions¡¡to¡¡be
executed¡¡by¡¡the¡¡governor¡£¡¡It¡¡
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