steamers are jammed as though frozen in an ice…drift in the Arctic
regions！ There is much work required to clear them。 The only chance of
progress will be to keep the entire fleet in compact line so as to push
through a new channel as quickly as it is made。 I shall send back the
wood tender； if possible； from this spot with a letter to stop Mr。
Higginbotham should he be south of the Sobat； as it will be impossible
for him to proceed until next season。 Many of the men are sick with
fever； and if this horrible country should continue； they will all
sicken。
〃March 16。I went back in a rowing boat； accompanied by Lieutenant
Baker； to the two steamers which we found stuck fast in the drift rafts；
that had closed in upon then。 Many men are sickall are dispirited； and
they worked badly。 Having worked all day； we returned at 6。30 p。m。； to
my diahbeeah； having the good fortune to shoot seven ducks by a family
shot upon a mud bank on the way home。
〃I found that the main body under the colonel； Raouf Bey； had completed
the channel about 900 yards long to lake No。 3。 I ordered sail to be
made immediately； and after five hours' hard work； as the channel was
already beginning to close； we arrived in the open lake at 11。15 p。m。；
in which we found the fleet at anchor。
〃March 17。The lake is about 2 1/2 miles long； and varies from 150 to
300 yards in width； with a mean depth of ten feet。 I sent men ahead in
the boat to explore the exit； they now report it to be closed by a small
dam； after which we shall enter another lake。 Thunder and clouds
threatening in the southeast。
〃About half…an…hour before sunset I observed the head of a hippopotamus
emerge from the bank of high grass that fringed the lake。 My troops had
no meatthus I would not lose the opportunity of procuring； if
possible； a supply of hippopotamus beef。 I took a Reilly No。 8
breechloader； and started in the little dingy belonging to the
diahbeeah。 Having paddled quietly along the edge of the grass for a
couple of hundred yards； I arrived near the spot from which the
hippopotamus had emerged。
〃It is the general habit of the hippopotami in these marsh districts to
lie in the high grass swamps during the day； and to swim or amuse
themselves in the open water at sunset。
〃I had not waited long before I heard a snort； and I perceived the
hippopotamus had risen to the surface about fifty yards from me。 This
distance was a little too great for the accurate firing necessary to
reach the brain； especially when the shot must be taken from a boat； in
which there is always some movement。 I therefore allowed the animal to
disappear； after which I immediately ordered the boat forward； to remain
exactly over the spot where he had sunk。 A few minutes elapsed； when the
great ugly head of the hippopotamus appeared about thirty paces from the
boat； and having blown the water from his nostrils； and snorted loudly；
he turned round and seemed astonished to find the solitary little boat
so near him。 Telling the two boatmen to sit perfectly quiet； so as to
allow a good sight； I aimed just below the eye； and fired a heavy shell；
which contained a bursting charge of three drachms of fine…grained
powder。 The head disappeared。 A little smoke hung over the water； and I
could not observe other effects。 The lake was deep； and after vain
sounding for the body with a boathook； I returned to the diahbeeah just
as it became dark。
〃March 18。A heavy shower of rain fell； which lasted for an hour and a
half。 When the rain ceased； the day continued cloudy with variable wind。
The body of the hippopotamus was discovered at daybreak floating near
us； therefore all hands turned out to cut him up； delighted at the idea
of fresh meat。 There was about an acre of high and dry ground that
bordered the marsh in one spot； to this the carcase of the hippopotamus
was towed。 I was anxious to observe the effects of the explosive shell；
as it was an invention of my own that had been manufactured by Mr。
Reilly； ＇*＇ the gunmaker； of London。 This shell was composed of
iron； covered with lead。 The interior was a cast…iron bottle （similar in
shape to a stoneware Seltzer water bottle）； the neck formed a nipple to
receive a percussion…cap。 The entire bottle was concealed by a leaden
coating； which was cast in a mould to fit a No。 8； or two…ounce rifle。
The iron bottle contained three drachms of the strongest gunpowder； and
a simple cap pressed down upon the nipple prepared the shell for
service。
＇*Footnote： Mr。 Reilly； of 502 New Oxford Street； has been most
successful in heavy rifles； with which he has supplied me in
both my African expeditions。＇
〃On an examination of the head of the hippopotamus； I found that the
shell had struck exactly beneath the eye； where the bone plate is thin。
It had traversed the skull； and had apparently exploded in the brain； as
it had entirely carried away the massive bone that formed the back of
the skull。 The velocity of the projectile had carried the fragments of
the shell onwards after the explosion； and had formed a sort of tunnel
which was blackened with burnt powder for a considerable distance along
the flesh of the neck。 I was quite satisfied with my explosive shell。
〃The hippopotamus having been divided among the men； I sent Raouf Bey
with a large force to assist the steamers； which still remain fixed in
the same spot。
〃At 2 p。m。 it poured with rain until 9 p。m。 Everything is soaking； and I
have great anxiety about our large stores of corn。
〃March 19。Fine day； but all cargo； stores； &c。； are wet。 The miserable
vessels of the Soudan are without decks； thus one heavy shower creates
much damage。 The men are busy drying their clothes； &c。 Two soldiers
died。 Steamers far astern in the sudd； regularly fixed。
〃March 20。A boy died。 I sent fresh men to the assistance of the
steamers； which have to be literally dug out。
〃March 21。Yesterday as the men were digging out the steamers； which
had become blocked by the floating rafts； they felt something struggling
beneath their feet。 They immediately scrambled away in time to avoid the
large head of a crocodile that broke its way through the tangled mass in
which it had been jammed and held prisoner by the rafts。 The black
soldiers； armed with swords and bill…hooks； immediately attacked the
crocodile； who； although freed from imprisonment； had not exactly fallen
into the hands of the Royal Humane Society。 He was quickly despatched；
and that evening his flesh gladdened the cooking pots of the Soudani
regiment。
〃I was amused with the account of this adventure given by various
officers who were eye…witnesses。 One stated in reply to my question as
to the length of the animal； ‘Well； sir； I should not like to
exaggerate； but I should say it was forty…five feet long from snout to
tail！' Another witness declared it to be at least twenty feet； but by
rigid cross…examination I came to the conclusion that it did not exceed
ten。
〃The steamers and tender； having been released； arrived this morning。 At
1 p。m。 we started with a light air from the northeast； and travelled
till 3。30 p。m。 along the lake； which narrowed to the dimensions of a
moderate river。 We at length arrived at a sudd which the advance boats
had cleared for about sixty yards。 Having emerged； we were introduced to
a deep but extremely narrow channel flowing through the usual enormous
grass。
〃The whole fleet ranged in single line to widen the passage。 We are now
about twelve miles from the dubba； or raised dry ground； near to which
we first commenced clearing。 We have actually cut away about six miles
of vegetation。 No dependence whatever can be placed upon the guides： no
place answers to their descriptions。 We have now been hard at work for
thirteen days with a thousand men； during which time we have travelled
only twelve miles！
〃March 22。Wind S。W。foul。 The people are all lazy and despairing。
Cleared a sudd。 I explored ahead in a small boat。 As usual； the country
is a succession of sudds and small open patches of water。 The work is
frightful； and great numbers of my men are laid down with fever； thus my
force is physically diminished daily； while morally the men are
heart…broken。 Another soldier died； but there is no dry spot to bury
him。 We live in a world of swamp and slush。 Lieutenant Baker shot a
Baleniceps Rex。 This day we opened about 600 yards。
〃March 23。We have been throughout the day employed in tugging the
vessels through the channel。 The Egyptians have quite lost heart。 The
Soudanis are far more valuable as soldiers； none of them are ill； and
they work with a good will。 I serve them out a glass of grog in the
evening。 The fanatical fellahs will not touch spirits； thus they succumb
to fever and nervousness when exhausted by the chill occasioned by
working throughout the day in mud and water。
〃March 24。Wind fresh from the S。W。 All the vessels assembled last
evening in a small lake。 Before us there is as usual simply a narrow
stream closed in by vegetation。 I observed marks of the traders' parties
having broken through a few months ago。 These people travel without
merchandise； but with a large force of men： thus their vessels are of
light draught of water。 My steamers and many of the boats require four
feet six inches。 Every vessel is heavily laden； thus they are difficult
to manage unless in open and deep water。
〃There is to…day a forest on the east； about two miles distant； beyond
the swamp。 After a hard day's work we made about 1；400 yards。
〃March 25。Wind fair and fresh from the N。E。 This helped us to make
about a mile through the narrow channel； hemmed in by thick and high
grass。 Another soldier died。 As usual； this poor fellow was an
artilleryman。 These men came direct from Cairo with their guns； and not
being acclimatized； they cannot resist the fever。 The Egyptian troops
give in and lose all heart； but there is much allowance to be made for
them； as it is a fearful country； and far beyond my worst experience。
There is no apparent break to the boundless marsh before and behind us；
this is about fifteen miles wide； as forest trees and the tall dolape
palms can sometimes be distinguished upon the horizon。
〃What the unfortunat