write down here all the abuse I expended on those stirrups； it would make
a large book； even without pictures。 Sometimes I got one foot so far
through； that the stirrup partook of the nature of an anklet； sometimes
both feet were through； and I was handcuffed by the legs； and sometimes
my feet got clear out and left the stirrups wildly dangling about my
shins。 Even when I was in proper position and carefully balanced upon
the balls of my feet； there was no comfort in it； on account of my
nervous dread that they were going to slip one way or the other in a
moment。 But the subject is too exasperating to write about。
A mile and a half from town； I came to a grove of tall cocoanut trees；
with clean； branchless stems reaching straight up sixty or seventy feet
and topped with a spray of green foliage sheltering clusters of cocoa…
nutsnot more picturesque than a forest of collossal ragged parasols；
with bunches of magnified grapes under them； would be。
I once heard a gouty northern invalid say that a cocoanut tree might be
poetical； possibly it was； but it looked like a feather…duster struck by
lightning。 I think that describes it better than a pictureand yet；
without any question； there is something fascinating about a cocoa…nut
treeand graceful； too。
About a dozen cottages； some frame and the others of native grass；
nestled sleepily in the shade here and there。 The grass cabins are of a
grayish color； are shaped much like our own cottages； only with higher
and steeper roofs usually； and are made of some kind of weed strongly
bound together in bundles。 The roofs are very thick； and so are the
walls； the latter have square holes in them for windows。 At a little
distance these cabins have a furry appearance； as if they might be made
of bear skins。 They are very cool and pleasant inside。 The King's flag
was flying from the roof of one of the cottages； and His Majesty was
probably within。 He owns the whole concern thereabouts； and passes his
time there frequently； on sultry days 〃laying off。〃 The spot is called
〃The King's Grove。〃
Near by is an interesting ruinthe meagre remains of an ancient heathen
templea place where human sacrifices were offered up in those old
bygone days when the simple child of nature； yielding momentarily to sin
when sorely tempted； acknowledged his error when calm reflection had
shown it him； and came forward with noble frankness and offered up his
grandmother as an atoning sacrificein those old days when the luckless
sinner could keep on cleansing his conscience and achieving periodical
happiness as long as his relations held out； long； long before the
missionaries braved a thousand privations to come and make them
permanently miserable by telling them how beautiful and how blissful a
place heaven is； and how nearly impossible it is to get there； and showed
the poor native how dreary a place perdition is and what unnecessarily
liberal facilities there are for going to it； showed him how； in his
ignorance he had gone and fooled away all his kinfolks to no purpose；
showed him what rapture it is to work all day long for fifty cents to buy
food for next day with； as compared with fishing for pastime and lolling
in the shade through eternal Summer； and eating of the bounty that nobody
labored to provide but Nature。 How sad it is to think of the multitudes
who have gone to their graves in this beautiful island and never knew
there was a hell！
This ancient temple was built of rough blocks of lava； and was simply a
roofless inclosure a hundred and thirty feet long and seventy wide
nothing but naked walls； very thick； but not much higher than a man's
head。 They will last for ages no doubt； if left unmolested。 Its three
altars and other sacred appurtenances have crumbled and passed away years
ago。 It is said that in the old times thousands of human beings were
slaughtered here； in the presence of naked and howling savages。 If these
mute stones could speak； what tales they could tell； what pictures they
could describe； of fettered victims writhing under the knife； of massed
forms straining forward out of the gloom； with ferocious faces lit up by
the sacrificial fires； of the background of ghostly trees； of the dark
pyramid of Diamond Head standing sentinel over the uncanny scene； and the
peaceful moon looking down upon it through rifts in the cloud…rack！
When Kamehameha （pronounced Ka…may…ha…may…ah） the Greatwho was a sort
of a Napoleon in military genius and uniform successinvaded this island
of Oahu three quarters of a century ago； and exterminated the army sent
to oppose him； and took full and final possession of the country； he
searched out the dead body of the King of Oahu； and those of the
principal chiefs； and impaled their heads on the walls of this temple。
Those were savage times when this old slaughter…house was in its prime。
The King and the chiefs ruled the common herd with a rod of iron； made
them gather all the provisions the masters needed； build all the houses
and temples； stand all the expenses； of whatever kind； take kicks and
cuffs for thanks； drag out lives well flavored with misery； and then
suffer death for trifling offences or yield up their lives on the
sacrificial altars to purchase favors from the gods for their hard
rulers。 The missionaries have clothed them； educated them； broken up the
tyrannous authority of their chiefs； and given them freedom and the right
to enjoy whatever their hands and brains produce with equal laws for all；
and punishment for all alike who transgress them。 The contrast is so
strongthe benefit conferred upon this people by the missionaries is so
prominent； so palpable and so unquestionable； that the frankest
compliment I can pay them； and the best； is simply to point to the
condition of the Sandwich Islanders of Captain Cook's time； and their
condition to…day。
Their work speaks for itself。
CHAPTER LXV。
By and by； after a rugged climb； we halted on the summit of a hill which
commanded a far…reaching view。 The moon rose and flooded mountain and
valley and ocean with a mellow radiance； and out of the shadows of the
foliage the distant lights of Honolulu glinted like an encampment of
fireflies。 The air was heavy with the fragrance of flowers。 The halt
was brief。Gayly laughing and talking； the party galloped on； and I
clung to the pommel and cantered after。 Presently we came to a place
where no grass grewa wide expanse of deep sand。 They said it was an
old battle ground。 All around everywhere； not three feet apart； the
bleached bones of men gleamed white in the moonlight。 We picked up a lot
of them for mementoes。 I got quite a number of arm bones and leg bones
of great chiefs； may be； who had fought savagely in that fearful battle
in the old days； when blood flowed like wine where we now stoodand wore
the choicest of them out on Oahu afterward； trying to make him go。 All
sorts of bones could be found except skulls； but a citizen said；
irreverently； that there had been an unusual number of 〃skull…hunters〃
there latelya species of sportsmen I had never heard of before。
Nothing whatever is known about this placeits story is a secret that
will never be revealed。 The oldest natives make no pretense of being
possessed of its history。 They say these bones were here when they were
children。 They were here when their grandfathers were childrenbut how
they came here； they can only conjecture。 Many people believe this spot
to be an ancient battle…ground； and it is usual to call it so； and they
believe that these skeletons have lain for ages just where their
proprietors fell in the great fight。 Other people believe that
Kamehameha I。 fought his first battle here。 On this point； I have heard
a story； which may have been taken from one of the numerous books which
have been written concerning these islandsI do not know where the
narrator got it。 He said that when Kamehameha （who was at first merely a
subordinate chief on the island of Hawaii）； landed here； he brought a
large army with him； and encamped at Waikiki。 The Oahuans marched
against him； and so confident were they of success that they readily
acceded to a demand of their priests that they should draw a line where
these bones now lie； and take an oath that； if forced to retreat at all；
they would never retreat beyond this boundary。 The priests told them
that death and everlasting punishment would overtake any who violated the
oath； and the march was resumed。 Kamehameha drove them back step by
step； the priests fought in the front rank and exhorted them both by
voice and inspiriting example to remember their oathto die； if need be；
but never cross the fatal line。 The struggle was manfully maintained；
but at last the chief priest fell； pierced to the heart with a spear； and
the unlucky omen fell like a blight upon the brave souls at his back；
with a triumphant shout the invaders pressed forwardthe line was
crossedthe offended gods deserted the despairing army； and； accepting
the doom their perjury had brought upon them； they broke and fled over
the plain where Honolulu stands nowup the beautiful Nuuanu Valley
paused a moment； hemmed in by precipitous mountains on either hand and
the frightful precipice of the Pari in front； and then were driven over
a sheer plunge of six hundred feet！
The story is pretty enough； but Mr。 Jarves' excellent history says the
Oahuans were intrenched in Nuuanu Valley； that Kamehameha ousted them；
routed them； pursued them up the valley and drove them over the
precipice。 He makes no mention of our bone…yard at all in his book。
Impressed by the profound silence and repose that rested over the
beautiful landscape； and being； as usual； in the rear； I gave voice to my
thoughts。 I said：
〃What a picture is here slumbering in the solemn glory of the moon！ How
strong the rugged outlines of the dead volcano stand out against the
clear sky！ What a snowy fringe marks the bursting of the surf over the
long； curved reef！ How calmly the dim city sleeps yonder in the plain！
How soft the shadows lie upon the stately mountains that border the
dream…haunted Mauoa Valley！ What a grand pyramid of billowy clouds
towers