How soft the shadows lie upon the stately mountains that border the
dream…haunted Mauoa Valley！ What a grand pyramid of billowy clouds
towers above the storied Pari！ How the grim warriors of the past seem
flocking in ghostly squadrons to their ancient battlefield againhow the
wails of the dying well up from the〃
At this point the horse called Oahu sat down in the sand。 Sat down to
listen； I suppose。 Never mind what he heard； I stopped apostrophising
and convinced him that I was not a man to allow contempt of Court on the
part of a horse。 I broke the back…bone of a Chief over his rump and set
out to join the cavalcade again。
Very considerably fagged out we arrived in town at 9 o'clock at night；
myself in the leadfor when my horse finally came to understand that he
was homeward bound and hadn't far to go； he turned his attention strictly
to business。
This is a good time to drop in a paragraph of information。 There is no
regular livery stable in Honolulu； or； indeed； in any part of the Kingdom
of Hawaii； therefore unless you are acquainted with wealthy residents
（who all have good horses）； you must hire animals of the wretchedest
description from the Kanakas。 （i。e。 natives。） Any horse you hire； even
though it be from a white man； is not often of much account； because it
will be brought in for you from some ranch； and has necessarily been
leading a hard life。 If the Kanakas who have been caring for him
（inveterate riders they are） have not ridden him half to death every day
themselves； you can depend upon it they have been doing the same thing by
proxy； by clandestinely hiring him out。 At least； so I am informed。 The
result is； that no horse has a chance to eat； drink； rest； recuperate； or
look well or feel well； and so strangers go about the Islands mounted as
I was to…day。
In hiring a horse from a Kanaka； you must have all your eyes about you；
because you can rest satisfied that you are dealing with a shrewd
unprincipled rascal。 You may leave your door open and your trunk
unlocked as long as you please； and he will not meddle with your
property； he has no important vices and no inclination to commit robbery
on a large scale； but if he can get ahead of you in the horse business；
he will take a genuine delight in doing it。 This traits is
characteristic of horse jockeys； the world over； is it not？ He will
overcharge you if he can； he will hire you a fine…looking horse at night
（anybody'smay be the King's； if the royal steed be in convenient view）；
and bring you the mate to my Oahu in the morning； and contend that it is
the same animal。 If you make trouble； he will get out by saying it was
not himself who made the bargain with you； but his brother； 〃who went out
in the country this morning。〃 They have always got a 〃brother〃 to shift
the responsibility upon。 A victim said to one of these fellows one day：
〃But I know I hired the horse of you； because I noticed that scar on your
cheek。〃
The reply was not bad： 〃Oh； yesyesmy brother all samewe twins！〃
A friend of mine； J。 Smith； hired a horse yesterday； the Kanaka
warranting him to be in excellent condition。
Smith had a saddle and blanket of his own； and he ordered the Kanaka to
put these on the horse。 The Kanaka protested that he was perfectly
willing to trust the gentleman with the saddle that was already on the
animal； but Smith refused to use it。 The change was made； then Smith
noticed that the Kanaka had only changed the saddles； and had left the
original blanket on the horse； he said he forgot to change the blankets；
and so； to cut the bother short； Smith mounted and rode away。 The horse
went lame a mile from town； and afterward got to cutting up some
extraordinary capers。 Smith got down and took off the saddle； but the
blanket stuck fast to the horseglued to a procession of raw places。
The Kanaka's mysterious conduct stood explained。
Another friend of mine bought a pretty good horse from a native； a day or
two ago； after a tolerably thorough examination of the animal。 He
discovered today that the horse was as blind as a bat； in one eye。 He
meant to have examined that eye； and came home with a general notion that
he had done it； but he remembers now that every time he made the attempt
his attention was called to something else by his victimizer。
One more instance； and then I will pass to something else。 I am informed
that when a certain Mr。 L。； a visiting stranger； was here； he bought a
pair of very respectable…looking match horses from a native。 They were
in a little stable with a partition through the middle of itone horse
in each apartment。 Mr。 L。 examined one of them critically through a
window （the Kanaka's 〃brother〃 having gone to the country with the key）；
and then went around the house and examined the other through a window on
the other side。 He said it was the neatest match he had ever seen； and
paid for the horses on the spot。 Whereupon the Kanaka departed to join
his brother in the country。 The fellow had shamefully swindled L。 There
was only one 〃match〃 horse； and he had examined his starboard side
through one window and his port side through another！ I decline to
believe this story； but I give it because it is worth something as a
fanciful illustration of a fixed factnamely； that the Kanaka horse…
jockey is fertile in invention and elastic in conscience。
You can buy a pretty good horse for forty or fifty dollars； and a good
enough horse for all practical purposes for two dollars and a half。 I
estimate 〃Oahu〃 to be worth somewhere in the neighborhood of thirty…five
cents。 A good deal better animal than he is was sold here day before
yesterday for a dollar and seventy…five cents； and sold again to…day for
two dollars and twenty…five cents； Williams bought a handsome and lively
little pony yesterday for ten dollars； and about the best common horse on
the island （and he is a really good one） sold yesterday； with Mexican
saddle and bridle； for seventy dollarsa horse which is well and widely
known； and greatly respected for his speed； good disposition and
everlasting bottom。
You give your horse a little grain once a day； it comes from San
Francisco； and is worth about two cents a pound； and you give him as much
hay as he wants； it is cut and brought to the market by natives； and is
not very good it is baled into long； round bundles； about the size of a
large man； one of them is stuck by the middle on each end of a six foot
pole； and the Kanaka shoulders the pole and walks about the streets
between the upright bales in search of customers。 These hay bales； thus
carried； have a general resemblance to a colossal capital 'H。'
The hay…bundles cost twenty…five cents apiece； and one will last a horse
about a day。 You can get a horse for a song； a week's hay for another
song； and you can turn your animal loose among the luxuriant grass in
your neighbor's broad front yard without a song at allyou do it at
midnight； and stable the beast again before morning。 You have been at no
expense thus far； but when you come to buy a saddle and bridle they will
cost you from twenty to thirty…five dollars。 You can hire a horse；
saddle and bridle at from seven to ten dollars a week； and the owner will
take care of them at his own expense。
It is time to close this day's recordbed time。 As I prepare for sleep；
a rich voice rises out of the still night； and； far as this ocean rock is
toward the ends of the earth； I recognize a familiar home air。 But the
words seem somewhat out of joint：
〃Waikiki lantoni oe Kaa hooly hooly wawhoo。〃
Translated； that means 〃When we were marching through Georgia。〃
CHAPTER LXVI。
Passing through the market place we saw that feature of Honolulu under
its most favorable auspicesthat is； in the full glory of Saturday
afternoon； which is a festive day with the natives。 The native girls by
twos and threes and parties of a dozen； and sometimes in whole platoons
and companies； went cantering up and down the neighboring streets astride
of fleet but homely horses； and with their gaudy riding habits streaming
like banners behind them。 Such a troop of free and easy riders； in their
natural home； the saddle； makes a gay and graceful spectacle。 The riding
habit I speak of is simply a long； broad scarf； like a tavern table cloth
brilliantly colored； wrapped around the loins once； then apparently
passed between the limbs and each end thrown backward over the same； and
floating and flapping behind on both sides beyond the horse's tail like a
couple of fancy flags； then； slipping the stirrup…irons between her toes；
the girl throws her chest for ward； sits up like a Major General and goes
sweeping by like the wind。
The girls put on all the finery they can on Saturday afternoonfine
black silk robes； flowing red ones that nearly put your eyes out； others
as white as snow； still others that discount the rainbow； and they wear
their hair in nets； and trim their jaunty hats with fresh flowers； and
encircle their dusky throats with home…made necklaces of the brilliant
vermillion…tinted blossom of the ohia； and they fill the markets and the
adjacent street with their bright presences； and smell like a rag factory
on fire with their offensive cocoanut oil。
Occasionally you see a heathen from the sunny isles away down in the
South Seas； with his face and neck tatooed till he looks like the
customary mendicant from Washoe who has been blown up in a mine。 Some
are tattooed a dead blue color down to the upper lipmasked； as it were
leaving the natural light yellow skin of Micronesia unstained from
thence down； some with broad marks drawn down from hair to neck； on both
sides of the face； and a strip of the original yellow skin； two inches
wide； down the centera gridiron with a spoke broken out； and some with
the entire face discolored with the popular mortification tint； relieved
only by one or two thin； wavy threads of natural yellow running across
the face from ear to ear； and eyes twinkling out of this darkness； from
under shadowing hat…brims； like stars in the dark of the moon。
Moving among the stirring crowds； you come to the poi merchants；
squatting in the shade on their