eased me of my sins； and given me God upon the cross。 Oh； a
powerful and comfortable priest is Father Toban。〃
〃And what would he say if he were to know that you asked for God
from a minister？〃
〃I do not know； and do not much care； if I get God； I do not care
whether I get Him from a minister or a priest； both have Him； no
doubt； only give Him in different ways。 Oh sir； do give us God； we
need Him sir； for we are sinful people； we call ourselves tinkers；
but many is the sinful thing … 〃
〃Bi…do…hosd；〃 said the man： Irish words tantamount to 〃Be silent！〃
〃I will not be hushed；〃 said the woman； speaking English。 〃The man
is a good man； and he will do us no harm。 We are tinkers； sir； but
we do many things besides tinkering； many sinful things； especially
in Wales； whither we are soon going again。 Oh； I want to be eased
of some of my sins before I go into Wales again； and so do you；
Tourlough； for you know how you are sometimes haunted by devils at
night in those dreary Welsh hills。 Oh sir； give us comfort in some
shape or other； either as priest or minister； give us God！ Give us
God！〃
〃I am neither priest nor minister；〃 said； I； 〃and can only say：
Lord have mercy upon you！〃 Then getting up I flung the children
some money and departed。
〃We do not want your money； sir；〃 screamed the woman after me； 〃we
have plenty of money。 Give us God！ Give us God！〃
〃Yes； your haner；〃 said the man； 〃give us God！ we do not want
money；〃 and the uncouth girl said something； which sounded much
like Give us God！ but I hastened across the meadow； which was now
quite dusky； and was presently in the inn with my wife and
daughter。
CHAPTER V
Welsh Book Stall … Wit and Poetry … Welsh of Chester … Beautiful
Morning … Noble Fellow … The Coiling Serpent … Wrexham Church …
Welsh or English？ … Codiad yr Ehedydd。
ON the afternoon of Monday I sent my family off by the train to
Llangollen； which place we had determined to make our head…quarters
during our stay in Wales。 I intended to follow them next day； not
in train； but on foot； as by walking I should be better able to see
the country； between Chester and Llangollen； than by making the
journey by the flying vehicle。 As I returned to the inn from the
train I took refuge from a shower in one of the rows or covered
streets； to which； as I have already said； one ascends by flights
of steps； stopping at a book…stall I took up a book which chanced
to be a Welsh one。 The proprietor； a short red…faced man；
observing me reading the book； asked me if I could understand it。
I told him that I could。
〃If so；〃 said he； 〃let me hear you translate the two lines on the
title…page。〃
〃Are you a Welshman？〃 said I。
〃I am！〃 he replied。
〃Good！〃 said I； and I translated into English the two lines which
were a couplet by Edmund Price； an old archdeacon of Merion；
celebrated in his day for wit and poetry。
The man then asked me from what part of Wales I came； and when I
told him that I was an Englishman was evidently offended； either
because he did not believe me； or； as I more incline to think； did
not approve of an Englishman's understanding Welsh。
The book was the life of the Rev。 Richards； and was published at
Caerlleon； or the city of the legion； the appropriate ancient
British name for the place now called Chester； a legion having been
kept stationed there during the occupation of Britain by the
Romans。
I returned to the inn and dined； and then yearning for society；
descended into the kitchen and had some conversation with the Welsh
maid。 She told me that there were a great many Welsh in Chester
from all parts of Wales； but chiefly from Denbighshire and
Flintshire； which latter was her own country。 That a great many
children were born in Chester of Welsh parents； and brought up in
the fear of God and love of the Welsh tongue。 That there were some
who had never been in Wales； who spoke as good Welsh as herself； or
better。 That the Welsh of Chester were of various religious
persuasions； that some were Baptists； some Independents； but that
the greater part were Calvinistic…Methodists； that she herself was
a Calvinistic…Methodist； that the different persuasions had their
different chapels； in which God was prayed to in Welsh； that there
were very few Welsh in Chester who belonged to the Church of
England； and that the Welsh in general do not like Church of
England worship； as I should soon find if I went into Wales。
Late in the evening I directed my steps across the bridge to the
green； where I had discoursed with the Irish itinerants。 I wished
to have some more conversation with them respecting their way of
life； and； likewise； as they had so strongly desired it； to give
them a little Christian comfort； for my conscience reproached me
for my abrupt departure on the preceding evening。 On arriving at
the green； however； I found them gone； and no traces of them but
the mark of their fire and a little dirty straw。 I returned；
disappointed and vexed； to my inn。
Early the next morning I departed from Chester for Llangollen；
distant about twenty miles； I passed over the noble bridge and
proceeded along a broad and excellent road； leading in a direction
almost due south through pleasant meadows。 I felt very happy … and
no wonder； the morning was beautiful； the birds sang merrily； and a
sweet smell proceeded from the new…cut hay in the fields； and I was
bound for Wales。 I passed over the river Allan and through two
villages called； as I was told； Pulford and Marford； and ascended a
hill； from the top of this hill the view is very fine。 To the east
are the high lands of Cheshire； to the west the bold hills of
Wales； and below； on all sides a fair variety of wood and water；
green meads and arable fields。
〃You may well look around； Measter；〃 said a waggoner； who； coming
from the direction in which I was bound； stopped to breathe his
team on the top of the hill； 〃you may well look around … there
isn't such a place to see the country from； far and near； as where
we stand。 Many come to this place to look about them。〃
I looked at the man； and thought I had never seen a more powerful…
looking fellow； he was about six feet two inches high； immensely
broad in the shoulders； and could hardly have weighed less than
sixteen stone。 I gave him the seal of the morning； and asked
whether he was Welsh or English。
〃English； Measter； English； born t'other side of Beeston； pure
Cheshire； Measter。〃
〃I suppose；〃 said I； 〃there are few Welshmen such big fellows as
yourself。〃
〃No； Measter；〃 said the fellow； with a grin； 〃there are few
Welshmen so big as I； or yourself either； they are small men
mostly； Measter； them Welshers； very small men … and yet the
fellows can use their hands。 I am a bit of a fighter； Measter； at
least I was before my wife made me join the Methodist connection；
and I once fit with a Welshman at Wrexham； he came from the hills；
and was a real Welshman； and shorter than myself by a whole head
and shoulder； but he stood up against me； and gave me more than
play for my money； till I gripped him； flung him down and myself
upon him； and then of course t'was all over with him。〃
〃You are a noble fellow；〃 said I； 〃and a credit to Cheshire。 Will
you have sixpence to drink？〃
〃Thank you； Measter； I shall stop at Pulford； and shall be glad to
drink your health in a jug of ale。〃
I gave him sixpence； and descended the hill on one side； while he；
with his team； descended it on the other。
〃A genuine Saxon；〃 said I； 〃I daresay just like many of those who；
under Hengist； subdued the plains of Lloegr and Britain。 Taliesin
called the Saxon race the Coiling Serpent。 He had better have
called it the Big Bull。 He was a noble poet； however： what
wonderful lines； upon the whole； are those in his prophecy； in
which he speaks of the Saxons and Britons； and of the result of
their struggle …
〃A serpent which coils；
And with fury boils；
From Germany coming with arm'd wings spread；
Shall subdue and shall enthrall
The broad Britain all；
From the Lochlin ocean to Severn's bed。
〃And British men
Shall be captives then
To strangers from Saxonia's strand；
They shall praise their God； and hold
Their language as of old；
But except wild Wales they shall lose their land。〃
I arrived at Wrexham； and having taken a very hearty breakfast at
the principal inn； for I felt rather hungry after a morning's walk
of ten miles； I walked about the town。 The town is reckoned a
Welsh town； but its appearance is not Welsh … its inhabitants have
neither the look nor language of Welshmen； and its name shows that
it was founded by some Saxon adventurer； Wrexham being a Saxon
compound； signifying the home or habitation of Rex or Rag； and
identical； or nearly so； with the Wroxham of East Anglia。 It is a
stirring bustling place； of much traffic； and of several thousand
inhabitants。 Its most remarkable object is its church； which
stands at the south…western side。 To this church； after wandering
for some time about the streets； I repaired。 The tower is
quadrangular； and is at least one hundred feet high； it has on its
summit four little turrets； one at each corner； between each of
which are three spirelets； the middlemost of the three the highest。
The nave of the church is to the east； it is of two stories； both
crenulated at the top。 I wished to see the interior of the church；
but found the gate locked。 Observing a group of idlers close at
hand with their backs against a wall； I went up to them； and；
addressing myself to one； inquired whether I could see the church。
〃Oh yes； sir；〃 said the man； 〃the clerk who has the key lives close
at hand； one of us shall go and fetch him … by…the…bye； I may as
well go myself。〃 He moved slowly away。 He was a large bulky man
of about the middle age； and his companions were about the same age
and size as himself。 I asked them if they were Welsh。 〃Yes； sir；〃
said one； 〃I suppose we are； for they call us Welsh。〃 I asked if
any of them could speak Welsh。 〃No； sir；〃 said the man