any of them could speak Welsh。 〃No； sir；〃 said the man； 〃all the
Welsh that any of us know； or indeed wish to know； is 'Cwrw da。'〃
Here there was a general laugh。 Cwrw da signifies good ale。 I at
first thought that the words might be intended as a hint for a
treat； but was soon convinced of the contrary。 There was no greedy
expectation in his eyes； nor； indeed； in those of his companions；
though they all looked as if they were fond of good ale。 I
inquired whether much Welsh was spoken in the town； and was told
very little。 When the man returned with the clerk I thanked him。
He told me I was welcome； and then went and leaned with his back
against the wall。 He and his mates were probably a set of boon
companions enjoying the air after a night's bout at drinking。 I
was subsequently told that all the people of Wrexham are fond of
good ale。 The clerk unlocked the church door； and conducted me in。
The interior was modern； but in no respects remarkable。 The clerk
informed me that there was a Welsh service every Sunday afternoon
in the church； but that few people attended； and those few were
almost entirely from the country。 He said that neither he nor the
clergyman were natives of Wrexham。 He showed me the Welsh Church
Bible； and at my request read a few verses from the sacred volume。
He seemed a highly intelligent man。 I gave him something； which
appeared to be more than he expected； and departed； after inquiring
of him the road to Llangollen。
I crossed a bridge； for there is a bridge and a stream too at
Wrexham。 The road at first bore due west； but speedily took a
southerly direction。 I moved rapidly over an undulating country； a
region of hills； or rather of mountains lay on my right hand。 At
the entrance of a small village a poor； sickly…looking woman asked
me for charity。
〃Are you Welsh or English？〃 said I。
〃Welsh；〃 she replied； 〃but I speak both languages； as do all the
people here。〃
I gave her a halfpenny； she wished me luck； and I proceeded。 I
passed some huge black buildings which a man told me were
collieries； and several carts laden with coal； and soon came to
Rhiwabon … a large village about half way between Wrexham and
Llangollen。 I observed in this place nothing remarkable； but an
ancient church。 My way from hence lay nearly west。 I ascended a
hill； from the top of which I looked down into a smoky valley。 I
descended； passing by a great many collieries； in which I observed
grimy men working amidst smoke and flame。 At the bottom of the
hill near a bridge I turned round。 A ridge to the east
particularly struck my attention； it was covered with dusky
edifices； from which proceeded thundering sounds； and puffs of
smoke。 A woman passed me going towards Rhiwabon； I pointed to the
ridge and asked its name； I spoke English。 The woman shook her
head and replied 〃Dim Saesneg。〃
〃This is as it should be；〃 said I to myself； 〃I now feel I am in
Wales。〃 I repeated the question in Welsh。
〃Cefn Bach；〃 she replied … which signifies the little ridge。
〃Diolch iti；〃 I replied； and proceeded on my way。
I was now in a wild valley … enormous hills were on my right。 The
road was good； and above it； in the side of a steep bank； was a
causeway intended for foot passengers。 It was overhung with hazel
bushes。 I walked along it to its termination which was at
Llangollen。 I found my wife and daughter at the principal inn。
They had already taken a house。 We dined together at the inn；
during the dinner we had music； for a Welsh harper stationed in the
passage played upon his instrument 〃Codiad yr ehedydd。〃 〃Of a
surety；〃 said I； 〃I am in Wales！〃
CHAPTER VI
Llangollen … Wyn Ab Nudd … The Dee … Dinas Bran。
THE northern side of the vale of Llangollen is formed by certain
enormous rocks called the Eglwysig rocks； which extend from east to
west； a distance of about two miles。 The southern side is formed
by the Berwyn hills。 The valley is intersected by the River Dee；
the origin of which is a deep lake near Bala； about twenty miles to
the west。 Between the Dee and the Eglwysig rises a lofty hill； on
the top of which are the ruins of Dinas Bran； which bear no slight
resemblance to a crown。 The upper part of the hill is bare with
the exception of what is covered by the ruins； on the lower part
there are inclosures and trees； with； here and there； a grove or
farm…house。 On the other side of the valley； to the east of
Llangollen； is a hill called Pen y Coed； beautifully covered with
trees of various kinds； it stands between the river and the Berwyn；
even as the hill of Dinas Bran stands between the river and the
Eglwysig rocks … it does not； however； confront Dinas Bran； which
stands more to the west。
Llangollen is a small town or large village of white houses with
slate roofs； it contains about two thousand inhabitants； and is
situated principally on the southern side of the Dee。 At its
western end it has an ancient bridge and a modest unpretending
church nearly in its centre； in the chancel of which rest the
mortal remains of an old bard called Gryffydd Hiraethog。 From some
of the houses on the southern side there is a noble view … Dinas
Bran and its mighty hill forming the principal objects。 The view
from the northern part of the town； which is indeed little more
than a suburb； is not quite so grand； but is nevertheless highly
interesting。 The eastern entrance of the vale of Llangollen is
much wider than the western； which is overhung by bulky hills。
There are many pleasant villas on both sides of the river； some of
which stand a considerable way up the hill； of the villas the most
noted is Plas Newydd at the foot of the Berwyn； built by two Irish
ladies of high rank； who resided in it for nearly half a century；
and were celebrated throughout Europe by the name of the Ladies of
Llangollen。
The view of the hill of Dinas Bran； from the southern side of
Llangollen； would be much more complete were it not for a bulky
excrescence； towards its base； which prevents the gazer from
obtaining a complete view。 The name of Llangollen signifies the
church of Collen； and the vale and village take their name from the
church； which was originally dedicated to Saint Collen； though
some； especially the neighbouring peasantry； suppose that
Llangollen is a compound of Llan； a church； and Collen； a hazel…
wood； and that the church was called the church of the hazel…wood
from the number of hazels in the neighbourhood。 Collen； according
to a legendary life； which exists of him in Welsh； was a Briton by
birth； and of illustrious ancestry。 He served for some time abroad
as a soldier against Julian the Apostate； and slew a Pagan champion
who challenged the best man amongst the Christians。 Returning to
his own country he devoted himself to religion； and became Abbot of
Glastonbury； but subsequently retired to a cave on the side of a
mountain； where he lived a life of great austerity。 Once as he was
lying in his cell he heard two men out abroad discoursing about Wyn
Ab Nudd； and saying that he was king of the Tylwyth or Teg Fairies；
and lord of Unknown； whereupon Collen thrusting his head out of his
cave told them to hold their tongues； for that Wyn Ab Nudd and his
host were merely devils。 At dead of night he heard a knocking at
the door； and on his asking who was there； a voice said： 〃I am a
messenger from Wyn Ab Nudd； king of Unknown； and I am come to
summon thee to appear before my master to…morrow； at mid…day； on
the top of the hill。〃
Collen did not go … the next night there was the same knocking and
the same message。 Still Collen did not go。 The third night the
messenger came again and repeated his summons； adding that if he
did not go it would be the worse for him。 The next day Collen made
some holy water； put it into a pitcher and repaired to the top of
the hill； where he saw a wonderfully fine castle； attendants in
magnificent liveries； youths and damsels dancing with nimble feet；
and a man of honourable presence before the gate； who told him that
the king was expecting him to dinner。 Collen followed the man into
the castle； and beheld the king on a throne of gold； and a table
magnificently spread before him。 The king welcomed Collen； and
begged him to taste of the dainties on the table； adding that he
hoped that in future he would reside with him。 〃I will not eat of
the leaves of the forest；〃 said Collen。
〃Did you ever see men better dressed？〃 said the king； 〃than my
attendants here in red and blue？〃
〃Their dress is good enough；〃 said Collen； 〃considering what kind
of dress it is。〃
〃What kind of dress is it？〃 said the king。
Collen replied： 〃The red on the one side denotes burning； and the
blue on the other side denotes freezing。〃 Then drawing forth his
sprinkler； he flung the holy water in the faces of the king and his
people； whereupon the whole vision disappeared； so that there was
neither castle nor attendants； nor youth nor damsel； nor musician
with his music； nor banquet； nor anything to be seen save the green
bushes。
The valley of the Dee； of which the Llangollen district forms part；
is called in the British tongue Glyndyfrdwy … that is； the valley
of the Dwy or Dee。 The celebrated Welsh chieftain； generally known
as Owen Glendower； was surnamed after this valley； the whole of
which belonged to him； and in which he had two or three places of
strength； though his general abode was a castle in Sycharth； a
valley to the south…east of the Berwyn； and distant about twelve
miles from Llangollen。
Connected with the Dee there is a wonderful Druidical legend to the
following effect。 The Dee springs from two fountains； high up in
Merionethshire； called Dwy Fawr and Dwy Fach； or the great and
little Dwy； whose waters pass through those of the lake of Bala
without mingling with them； and come out at its northern extremity。
These fountains had their names from two individuals； Dwy Fawr and
Dwy Fach； who escaped from the Deluge； when all the rest of the
human race were drowned； and the pas