speak very much my own opinion。 However； as I am an unprejudiced
person； like yourself； I wish to do justice to other countries …
the States are fine countries … but there are other fine countries
in the world。 I say nothing of England； catch me saying anything
good of England； but I call Wales a fine country； gainsay it who
may； I call Wales a fine country。〃
〃So it is； Mr。〃
〃I'll go farther；〃 said I； 〃I wish to do justice to everything： I
call the Welsh a fine language。〃
〃So it is； Mr。 Ah； I see you are an unprejudiced man。 You don't
understand Welsh； I guess。〃
〃I don't understand Welsh；〃 said I； 〃I don't understand Welsh。
That's what I call a good one。〃
〃Medrwch siarad Cumraeg？〃 said the short figure spitting on the
carpet。
〃Medraf；〃 said I。
〃You can； Mr！ Well； if that don't whip the Union。 But I see： you
were born in the States of Welsh parents。〃
〃No harm in being born in the States of Welsh parents；〃 said I。
〃None at all； Mr； I was myself； and the first language I learnt to
speak was Welsh。 Did your people come from Bala； Mr？〃
〃Why no！ Did yourn？〃
〃Why yaas … at least from the neighbourhood。 What State do you
come from？ Virginny？〃
〃Why no！〃
〃Perhaps Pensilvany country？〃
〃Pensilvany is a fine State；〃 said I。
〃So it is； Mr。 Oh； that is your State； is it？ I come from
Varmont。〃
〃You do； do you？ Well； Varmont is not a bad state； but not equal
to Pensilvany； and I'll tell you two reasons why； first it has not
been so long settled； and second there is not so much Welsh blood
in it as there is in Pensilvany。〃
〃Is there much Welsh blood in Pensilvany then？〃
〃Plenty； Mr； plenty。 Welsh flocked over to Pensilvany even as far
back as the time of William Pen； who as you know； Mr； was the first
founder of the Pensilvany State。 And that puts me in mind that
there is a curious account extant of the adventures of one of the
old Welsh settlers in Pensilvania。 It is to be found in a letter
in an old Welsh book。 The letter is dated 1705； and is from one
Huw Jones； born of Welsh parents in Pensilvany country； to a cousin
of his of the same name residing in the neighbourhood of this very
town of Bala in Merionethshire； where you and I； Mr； now are。 It
is in answer to certain inquiries made by the cousin； and is
written in pure old Welsh language。 It gives an account of how the
writer's father left this neighbourhood to go to Pensilvania； how
he embarked on board the ship WILLIAM PEN； how he was thirty weeks
on the voyage from the Thames to the Delaware。 Only think； Mr； of
a ship now…a…days being thirty weeks on the passage from the Thames
to the Delaware river； how he learnt the English language on the
voyage； how he and his companions nearly perished with hunger in
the wild wood after they landed； how Pensilvania city was built；
how he became a farmer and married a Welsh woman； the widow of a
Welshman from shire Denbigh； by whom he had the writer and several
other children； how the father used to talk to his children about
his native region and the places round about Bala； and fill their
breasts with longing for the land of their fathers； and finally how
the old man died leaving his children and their mother in
prosperous circumstances。 It is a wonderful letter； Mr； all
written in the pure old Welsh language。〃
〃I say； Mr； you are a cute one and know a thing or two。 I suppose
Welsh was the first language you learnt； like myself？〃
〃No； it wasn't … I like to speak the truth … never took to either
speaking or reading the Welsh language till I was past sixteen。〃
〃'Stonishing！ but see the force of blood at last。 In any line of
business？〃
〃No； Mr； can't say I am。〃
〃Have money in your pocket； and travel for pleasure。 Come to see
father's land。〃
〃Come to see old Wales。 And what brings you here； Hiraeth？〃
〃That's longing。 No； not exactly。 Came over to England to see
what I could do。 Got in with house at Liverpool in the drapery
business。 Travel for it hereabouts； having connections and
speaking the language。 Do branch business here for a banking…house
besides。 Manage to get on smartly。〃
〃You look a smart 'un。 But don't you find it sometimes hard to
compete with English travellers in the drapery line？〃
〃I guess not。 English travellers！ set of nat'rals。 Don't know the
language and nothing else。 Could whip a dozen any day。 Regularly
flummox them。〃
〃You do； Mr？ Ah； I see you're a cute 'un。 Glad to have met you。〃
〃I say； Mr； you have not told me from what county your forefathers
were。〃
〃From Norfolk and Cornwall counties。〃
〃Didn't know there were such counties in Wales。〃
〃But there are in England。〃
〃Why； you told me you were of Welsh parents。〃
〃No； I didn't。 You told yourself so。〃
〃But how did you come to know Welsh？〃
〃Why； that's my bit of a secret。〃
〃But you are of the United States？〃
〃Never knew that before。〃
〃Mr； you flummox me。〃
〃Just as you do the English drapery travellers。 Ah； you're a cute
'un … but do you think it altogether a cute trick to stow all those
sovereigns in that drawer？〃
〃Who should take them out； Mr？〃
〃Who should take them out？ Why； any of the swell mob that should
chance to be in the house might unlock the drawer with their flash
keys as soon as your back is turned； and take out all the coin。〃
〃But there are none of the swell mob here。〃
〃How do you know； that？〃 said I； 〃the swell mob travel wide about …
how do you know that I am not one of them？〃
〃The swell mob don't speak Welsh； I guess。〃
〃Don't be too sure of that；〃 said I … 〃the swell coves spare no
expense for their education … so that they may be able to play
parts according to circumstances。 I strongly advise you； Mr； to
put that bag somewhere else lest something should happen to it。〃
〃Well； Mr； I'll take your advice。 These are my quarters； and I was
merely going to keep the money here for convenience' sake。 The
money belongs to the bank； so it is but right to stow it away in
the bank safe。 I certainly should be loth to leave it here with
you in the room； after what you have said。〃 He then got up；
unlocked the drawer； took out the bag； and with a 〃Goodnight； Mr；〃
left the room。
I 〃trifled〃 over my brandy and water till I finished it； and then
walked forth to look at the town。 I turned up a street； which led
to the east； and soon found myself beside the lake at the north…
west extremity of which Bala stands。 It appeared a very noble
sheet of water stretching from north to south for several miles。
As； however； night was fast coming on I did not see it to its full
advantage。 After gazing upon it for a few minutes I sauntered back
to the square； or marketplace； and leaning my back against a wall；
listened to the conversation of two or three groups of people who
were standing near； my motive for doing so being a desire to know
what kind of Welsh they spoke。 Their language as far as I heard it
differed in scarcely any respect from that of Llangollen。 I；
however； heard very little of it； for I had scarcely kept my
station a minute when the good folks became uneasy； cast side…
glances at me； first dropped their conversation to whispers； next
held their tongues altogether； and finally moved off； some going to
their homes； others moving to a distance and then grouping together
… even certain ragged boys who were playing and chattering near me
became uneasy； first stood still； then stared at me； and then took
themselves off and played and chattered at a distance。 Now what
was the cause of all this？ Why； suspicion of the Saxon。 The Welsh
are afraid lest an Englishman should understand their language；
and； by hearing their conversation； become acquainted with their
private affairs； or by listening to it； pick up their language
which they have no mind that he should know … and their very
children sympathise with them。 All conquered people are suspicious
of their conquerors； The English have forgot that they ever
conquered the Welsh； but some ages will elapse before the Welsh
forget that the English have conquered them。
CHAPTER L
The Breakfast … The Tomen Bala … El Punto de la Vana。
I SLEPT soundly that night； as well I might； my bed being good and
my body weary。 I arose about nine； dressed and went down to the
parlour which was vacant。 I rang the bell； and on Tom Jenkins
making his appearance I ordered breakfast； and then asked for the
Welsh American； and learned that he had breakfasted very early and
had set out in a gig on a journey to some distance。 In about
twenty minutes after I had ordered it my breakfast made its
appearance。 A noble breakfast it was； such indeed as I might have
read of； but had never before seen。 There was tea and coffee； a
goodly white loaf and butter； there were a couple of eggs and two
mutton chops。 There was broiled and pickled salmon … there was
fried trout … there were also potted trout and potted shrimps。
Mercy upon me！ I had never previously seen such a breakfast set
before me； nor indeed have I subsequently。 Yes； I have
subsequently； and at that very house when I visited it some months
after。
After breakfast I called for the bill。 I forget the exact amount
of the bill； but remember that it was very moderate。 I paid it and
gave the noble Thomas a shilling； which he received with a bow and
truly French smile； that is a grimace。 When I departed the
landlord and landlady； highly respectable…looking elderly people；
were standing at the door； one on each side； and dismissed me with
suitable honour； he with a low bow； she with a profound curtsey。
Having seen little of the town on the preceding evening； I
determined before setting out for Llangollen to become better
acquainted with it； and accordingly took another stroll about it。
Bala is a town containing three or four thousand inhabitants；
situated near the northern end of an oblong valley； at least two…
thirds of which are occupied by Llyn Tegid。 It has two long
streets； extending from north to south； a few narrow cross ones； an
ancient church； partly overg