streets； extending from north to south； a few narrow cross ones； an
ancient church； partly overgrown with ivy； with a very pointed
steeple； and a town…hall of some antiquity； in which Welsh
interludes used to be performed。 After gratifying my curiosity
with respect to the town； I visited the mound … the wondrous Tomen
Bala。
The Tomen Bala stands at the northern end of the town。 It is
apparently formed of clay； is steep and of difficult ascent。 In
height it is about thirty feet； and in diameter at the top about
fifty。 On the top grows a gwern or alder…tree； about a foot thick；
its bark terribly scotched with letters and uncouth characters；
carved by the idlers of the town who are fond of resorting to the
top of the mound in fine weather； and lying down on the grass which
covers it。 The Tomen is about the same size as Glendower's Mount
on the Dee； which it much resembles in shape。 Both belong to that
brotherhood of artificial mounds of unknown antiquity； found
scattered； here and there； throughout Europe and the greater part
of Asia； the most remarkable specimen of which is； perhaps； that
which stands on the right side of the way from Adrianople to
Stamboul； and which is called by the Turks Mourad Tepehsi； or the
tomb of Mourad。 Which mounds seem to have been originally intended
as places of sepulture； but in many instances were afterwards used
as strongholds； bonhills or beacon…heights； or as places on which
adoration was paid to the host of heaven。
From the Tomen there is a noble view of the Bala valley； the Lake
of Beauty up to its southern extremity； and the neighbouring and
distant mountains。 Of Bala； its lake and Tomen； I shall have
something to say on a future occasion。
Leaving Bala I passed through the village of Llanfair and found
myself by the Dee； whose course I followed for some way。 Coming to
the northern extremity of the Bala valley； I entered a pass tending
due north。 Here the road slightly diverged from the river。 I sped
along； delighted with the beauty of the scenery。 On my left was a
high bank covered with trees； on my right a grove； through openings
in which I occasionally caught glimpses of the river； over whose
farther side towered noble hills。 An hour's walking brought me
into a comparatively open country； fruitful and charming。 At about
one o'clock I reached a large village； the name of which； like
those of most Welsh villages； began with Llan。 There I refreshed
myself for an hour or two in an old…fashioned inn； and then resumed
my journey。
I passed through Corwen； again visited Glendower's monticle upon
the Dee； and reached Llangollen shortly after sunset； where I found
my beloved two well and glad to see me。
That night； after tea； Henrietta played on the guitar the old
muleteer tune of 〃El Punto de la Vana；〃 or the main point at the
Havanna； whilst I sang the words …
〃Never trust the sample when you go your cloth to buy：
The woman's most deceitful that's dressed most daintily。
The lasses of Havanna ride to mass in coaches yellow；
But ere they go they ask if the priest's a handsome fellow。
The lasses of Havanna as mulberries are dark；
And try to make them fairer by taking Jesuit's bark。〃
CHAPTER LI
The Ladies of Llangollen … Sir Alured … Eisteddfodau … Pleasure and
Care。
SHORTLY after my return I paid a visit to my friends at the
Vicarage； who were rejoiced to see me back； and were much
entertained with the account I gave of my travels。 I next went to
visit the old church clerk of whom I had so much to say on a former
occasion。 After having told him some particulars of my expedition；
to all of which he listened with great attention； especially to
that part which related to the church of Penmynydd and the tomb of
the Tudors； I got him to talk about the ladies of Llangollen； of
whom I knew very little save what I had heard from general report。
I found he remembered their first coming to Llangollen； their
living in lodgings； their purchasing the ground called Pen y maes；
and their erecting upon it the mansion to which the name of Plas
Newydd was given。 He said they were very eccentric； but good and
kind； and had always shown most particular favour to himself； that
both were highly connected； especially Lady Eleanor Butler； who was
connected by blood with the great Duke of Ormond who commanded the
armies of Charles in Ireland in the time of the great rebellion；
and also with the Duke of Ormond who succeeded Marlborough in the
command of the armies in the Low Countries in the time of Queen
Anne； and who fled to France shortly after the accession of George
the First to the throne； on account of being implicated in the
treason of Harley and Bolingbroke； and that her ladyship was
particularly fond of talking of both these dukes； and relating
anecdotes concerning them。 He said that the ladies were in the
habit of receiving the very first people in Britain； 〃amongst
whom；〃 said the old church clerk； 〃was an ancient gentleman of most
engaging appearance and captivating manners； called Sir Alured C…。
He was in the army； and in his youth； owing to the beauty of his
person； was called ； 'the handsome captain。' It was said that one
of the royal princesses was desperately in love with him； and that
on that account George the Third insisted on his going to India。
Whether or not there was truth in the report； to India he went；
where he served with distinction for a great many years。 On his
return； which was not till he was upwards of eighty； he was
received with great favour by William the Fourth； who amongst other
things made him a field…marshal。 As often as October came round
did this interesting and venerable gentleman make his appearance at
Llangollen to pay his respects to the ladies； especially to Lady
Eleanor； whom he had known at Court as far back they say as the
American war。 It was rumoured at Llangollen that Lady Eleanor's
death was a grievous blow to Sir Alured； and that he would never be
seen there again。 However； when October came round he made his
appearance at the Vicarage； where he had always been in the habit
of taking up his quarters； and called on and dined with Miss
Ponsonby at Plas Newydd； but it was observed that he was not so gay
as he had formerly been。 In the evening； on his taking leave of
Miss Ponsonby； she said that he had used her ill。 Sir Alured
coloured； and asked her what she meant； adding that he had not to
his knowledge used any person ill in the course of his life。 'But
I say you have used me ill； very ill；' said Miss Ponsonby； raising
her voice； and the words 'very ill' she repeated several times。 At
last the old soldier waxing rather warm demanded an explanation。
'I'll give it you；' said Miss Ponsonby； 'were you not going away
after having only kissed my hand？' 'Oh；' said the general； 'if
that is my offence； I will soon make you reparation；' and instantly
gave her a hearty smack on the lips； which ceremony he never forgot
to repeat after dining with her on subsequent occasions。〃
We got on the subject of bards； and I mentioned to him Gruffydd
Hiraethog； the old poet buried in the chancel of Llangollen church。
The old clerk was not aware that he was buried there； and said that
though he had heard of him he knew little or nothing about him。
〃Where was he born？〃 said he。
〃In Denbighshire；〃 I replied； 〃near the mountain Hiraethog； from
which circumstance he called himself in poetry Gruffydd Hiraethog。〃
〃When did he flourish？〃
〃About the middle of the sixteenth century。〃
〃What did he write？〃
〃A great many didactic pieces；〃 said I in one of which is a famous
couplet to this effect：
〃He who satire loves to sing
On himself will satire bring。〃
〃Did you ever hear of William Lleyn？〃 said the old gentleman。
〃Yes；〃 said I； 〃he was a pupil of Hiraethog； and wrote an elegy on
his death； in which he alludes to Gruffydd's skill in an old Welsh
metre； called the Cross Consonancy； in the following manner：
'〃In Eden's grove from Adam's mouth
Upsprang a muse of noble growth；
So from thy grave； O poet wise；
Cross Consonancy's boughs shall rise。'〃
〃Really；〃 said the old clerk； 〃you seem to know something about
Welsh poetry。 But what is meant by a muse springing up from Adam's
mouth in Eden？〃
〃Why； I suppose；〃 said I； 〃that Adam invented poetry。〃
I made inquiries of him about the eisteddfodau or sessions of
bards； and expressed a wish to be present at one of them。 He said
that they were very interesting； that bards met at particular
periods and recited poems on various subjects which had been given
out beforehand； and that prizes were allotted to those whose
compositions were deemed the best by the judges。 He said that he
had himself won the prize for the best englyn on a particular
subject at an eisteddfod at which Sir Watkin Williams Wynn
presided； and at which Heber； afterwards Bishop of Calcutta； was
present； who appeared to understand Welsh well； and who took much
interest in the proceedings of the meeting。
Our discourse turning on the latter Welsh poets I asked him if he
had been acquainted with Jonathan Hughes； who the reader will
remember was the person whose grandson I met and in whose arm…chair
I sat at Ty yn y pistyll； shortly after my coming to Llangollen。
He said that he had been well acquainted with him； and had helped
to carry him to the grave； adding； that he was something of a poet；
but that he had always considered his forte lay in strong good
sense rather than poetry。 I mentioned Thomas Edwards； whose
picture I had seen in Valle Crucis Abbey。 He said that he knew him
tolerably well； and that the last time he saw him was when he；
Edwards； was about seventy years of age； when he sent him in a cart
to the house of a great gentleman near the aqueduct where he was
going to stay on a visit。 That Tom was about five feet eight
inches high； lusty； and very strongly built； that he had something
the matter with his right eye； that he was very satirical and very
clever； that his wife was a very clever woman and satirical