the Libyan desert； which every morning the first rays of the sun tint
with a rosy coral that nothing seems to dull； and in the east that of
the desert of Arabia； which never fails in the evening to retain the
light of the setting sun； and looks then like a mournful girdle of
glowing embers。 Sometimes the two parallel walls sheer off and give
more room to the green fields； to the woods of palm…trees； and the
little oases； separated by streaks of golden sand。 Sometimes they
approach so closely to the Nile that habitable Egypt is no wider than
some two or three poor fields of corn； lying right on the water's
edge； behind which the dead stones and the dead sands commence at
once。 And sometimes； even； the desert chain closes in so as to
overhang the river with its reddish…white cliffs； which no rain ever
comes to freshen； and in which； at different heights； gape the square
holes leading to the habitations of the mummies。 These mountains；
which in the distance look so beautiful in their rose…colour； and
make； as it were； interminable back…cloths to all that happens on the
river banks； were perforated； during some 5000 years； for the
introduction of sarcophagi and now they swarm with old dead bodies。
And all that passes on the banks； indeed； changes as little as the
background。
First there is that gesture； supple and superb； but always the same；
of the women in their long black robes who come without ceasing to
fill their long…necked jars and carry them away balanced on their
veiled heads。 Then the flocks which shepherds； draped in mourning；
bring to the river to drink； goats and sheep and asses all mixed up
together。 And then the buffaloes； massive and mud…coloured； who
descend calmly to bathe。 And； finally； the great labour of the
watering： the traditional noria； turned by a little bull with bandaged
eyes and； above all； the shaduf； worked by men whose naked bodies
stream with the cold water。
The shadufs follow one another sometimes as far as the eye can see。 It
is strange to watch the movementconfused in the distanceof all
these long rods which pump the water without ceasing； and look like
the swaying of living antennae。 The same sight was to be seen along
this river in the times of the Ramses。 But suddenly； at some bend of
the river； the old Pharaonic rigging disappears； to give place to a
succession of steam machines； which； more even than the muscles of the
fellahs； are busy at the water…drawing。 Before long their blackish
chimneys will make a continuous border to the tamed Nile。
Did one not know their bearings； the great ruins of this Egypt would
pass unnoticed。 With a few rare exceptions they lie beyond the green
plains on the threshold of the solitudes。 And against the changeless；
rose…coloured background of these cliffs of the desert； which follow
you during the whole of this tranquil navigation of some 600 miles；
are to be seen only the humble towns and villages of to…day； which
have the neutral colour of the ground。 Some openwork minarets dominate
themwhite spots above the prevailing dullness。 Clouds of pigeons
whirl round in the neighbourhood。 And amongst the little houses； which
are only cubes of mud； baked in the sun； the palm…trees of Africa；
either singly or in mighty clusters； rise superbly and cast on these
little habitations the shade of their palms which sway in the wind。
Not long ago； although indeed everything in these little towns was
mournful and stagnant； one would have been tempted to stop in passing；
drawn by that nameless peace that belonged to the Old East and to
Islam。 But； now； before the smallest hamletamongst the beautiful
primitive boats； that still remain in great numbers； pointing their
yards； like very long reeds； into the skythere is always； for the
meeting of the tourist boats； an enormous black pontoon； which spoils
the whole scene by its presence and its great advertising inscription：
〃Thomas Cook & Son （Egypt Ltd。）。〃 And； what is more； one hears the
whistling of the railway； which runs mercilessly along the river；
bringing from the Delta to the Soudan the hordes of European invaders。
And to crown all； adjoining the station is inevitably some modern
factory； throned there in a sort of irony； and dominating the poor
crumbling things that still presume to tell of Egypt and of mystery。
And so now； except at the towns or villages which lead to celebrated
ruins； we stop no longer。 It is necessary to proceed farther and for
the halt of the night to seek an obscure hamlet； a silent recess；
where we may moor our dahabiya against the venerable earth of the
bank。
And so one goes on； for days and weeks； between these two interminable
cliffs of reddish chalk； filled with their hypogea and mummies； which
are the walls of the valley of the Nile； and will follow us up to the
first cataract； until our entrance into Nubia。 There only will the
appearance and nature of the rocks of the desert change； to become the
more sombre granite out of which the Pharaohs carved their obelisks
and the great figures of their gods。
We go on and on； ascending the thread of this eternal current； and the
regularity of the wind； the persistent clearness of the sky； the
monotony of the great river； which winds but never ends； all conspire
to make us forget the hours and days that pass。 However deceived and
disappointed we may be at seeing the profanation of the river banks；
here； nevertheless； isolated on the water； we do not lose the peace of
being a wanderer； a stranger amongst an equipage of silent Arabs； who
every evening prostrate themselves in confiding prayer。
And； moreover； we are moving towards the south； towards the sun； and
every day has a more entrancing clearness； a more caressing warmth；
and the bronze of the faces that we see on our way takes on a deeper
tint。
And then too one mixes intimately with the life of the river bank；
which is still so absorbing and； at certain hours； when the horizon is
unsullied by the smoke of pit…coal； recalls you to the days of artless
toil and healthy beauty。 In the boats that meet us； half…naked men；
revelling in their movement； in the sun and air； sing； as they ply
their oars； those songs of the Nile that are as old as Thebes or
Memphis。 When the wind rises there is a riotous unfurling of sails；
which； stretched on their long yards； give to the dahabiyas the air of
birds in full flight。 Bending right over in the wind； they skim along
with a lively motion； carrying their cargoes of men and beasts and
primitive things。 Women are there draped still in the ancient fashion；
and sheep and goats； and sometimes piles of fruit and gourds； and
sacks of grain。 Many are laden to the water's edge with these
earthenware jars； unchanged for 3000 years； which the fellaheens know
how to place on their heads with so much graceand one sees these
heaps of fragile pottery gliding along the water as if carried by the
gigantic wings of a gull。 And in the far…off； almost fabulous； days
the life of the mariners of the Nile had the same aspect； as is shown
by the bas…reliefs on the oldest tombs； it required the same play of
muscles and of sails； was accompanied no doubt by the same songs； and
was subject to the withering caress of this same desert wind。 And
then； as now； the same unchanging rose coloured the continuous curtain
of the mountains。
But all at once there is a noise of machinery； and whistlings； and in
the air； which was just now so pure； rise noxious columns of black
smoke。 The modern steamers are coming； and throw into disorder the
flotillas of the past； colliers that leave great eddies in their wake；
or perhaps a wearisome lot of those three…decked tourist boats； which
make a great noise as they plough the water； and are laden for the
most part with ugly women； snobs and imbeciles。
Poor； poor Nile！ which reflected formerly on its warm mirror the
utmost of earthly splendour； which bore in its time so many barques of
gods and goddesses in procession behind the golden barge of Amen； and
knew in the dawn of the ages only an impeccable purity； alike of the
human form and of architectural design！ What a downfall is here！ To be
awakened from that disdainful sleep of twenty centuries and made to
carry the floating barracks of Thomas Cook & Son； to feed sugar
factories； and to exhaust itself in nourishing with its mud the raw
material for English cotton…stuffs。
CHAPTER XII
IN THE TEMPLE OF THE GODDESS OF LOVE AND JOY
It is the month of March； but as gay and splendid as in our June。
Around us are fields of corn； of lucerne； and the flowering bean。 And
the air is full of restless birds； singing deliriously for very joy in
the voluptuous business of their nests and coveys。 Our way lies over a
fertile soil； saturated with vital substancessome paradise for
beasts no doubt； for they swarm on every side： flocks of goats with a
thousand bleating kids； she…asses with their frisking young； cows and
cow…buffaloes feeding their calves； all turned loose among the crops；
to browse at their leisure； as if there were here a superabundance of
the riches of the soil。
What country is this that shows no sign of human habitation； that
knows no village； nor any distant spire？ The crops are like ours at
homewheat； lucerne； and the flowering bean that perfumes the air
with its white blossoms。 But there is an excess of light in the sky
and； in the distance； an extraordinary clearness。 And then these
fertile plains； that might be those of some 〃Promised Land；〃 seem to
be bounded far away； on left and right； by two parallel stone walls；
two chains of rose…coloured mountains； whose aspect is obviously
desertlike。 Besides； amongst the numerous animals that are familiar；
there are camels； feeding their strange nurslings that look like four…
legged ostriches。 And finally some peasants appear beyond in the
cornfields； they are veiled in lon