to maintain good…fellowship； and promote the purposes of
humanity； in favour of those who come hither on the score of
health。 I see several faces which we left at Bath； although the
majority are of the Northern counties； and many come from
Scotland for the benefit of these waters In such a variety；
there must be some originals； among whom Mrs Tabitha Bramble is
not the most inconsiderable No place where there is such an
intercourse between the sexes； can be disagreeable to a lady of
her views and temperament She has had some warm disputes at
table； with a lame parson from Northumberland； on the new birth；
and the insignificance of moral virtue； and her arguments have
been reinforced by an old Scotch lawyer； in a rye periwig； who；
though he has lost his teeth； and the use of his limbs； can still
wag his tongue with great volubility。 He has paid her such
fulsome compliments； upon her piety and learning； as seem to have
won her heart； and she； in her turn； treats him with such
attention as indicates a design upon his person； but； by all
accounts； he is too much of a fox to be inveigled into any snare
that she can lay for his affection。
We do not propose to stay long at Harrigate； though； at present；
it is our headquarters； from whence we shall make some
excursions； to visit two or three of our rich relations； who are
settled in this country。 Pray； remember me to all our friends of
Jesus； and allow me to be still
Yours affectionately；
J。 MELFORD
HARRIGATE； June 23。
To Dr LEWIS。
DEAR DOCTOR；
Considering the tax we pay for turnpikes； the roads of this
county constitute a most intolerable grievance。 Between Newark
and Weatherby； I have suffered more from jolting and swinging
than ever I felt in the whole course of my life； although the
carriage is remarkably commodious and well hung； and the
postilions were very careful in driving。 I am now safely housed
at the New Inn； at Harrigate； whither I came to satisfy my
curiosity； rather than with any view of advantage to my health；
and； truly； after having considered all the parts and particulars
of the place； I cannot account for the concourse of people one
finds here； upon any other principle but that of caprice； which
seems to be the character of our nation。
Harrigate is a wild common； bare and bleak； without tree or
shrub； or the least signs of cultivation； and the people who
come to drink the water； are crowded together in paltry inns；
where the few tolerable rooms are monopolized by the friends and
favourites of the house； and all the rest of the lodgers are
obliged to put up with dirty holes； where there is neither space；
air； nor convenience。 My apartment is about ten feet square； and
when the folding bed is down； there is just room sufficient to
pass between it and the fire。 One might expect； indeed； that
there would be no occasion for a fire at Midsummer； but here the
climate is so backward； that an ash tree； which our landlord
has planted before my window； is just beginning to put forth its
leaves； and I am fain to have my bed warmed every night。
As for the water； which is said to have effected so many
surprising cures； I have drank it once； and the first draught has
cured me of all desire to repeat the medicine。 Some people say
it smells of rotten eggs； and others compare it to the scourings
of a foul gun。 It is generally supposed to be strongly
impregnated with sulphur； and Dr Shaw； in his book upon mineral
water； says； he has seen flakes of sulphur floating in the well
Pace tanti viri； I； for my part； have never observed any thing
like sulphur； either in or about the well； neither do I find that
any brimstone has ever been extracted from the water。 As for the
smell； if I may be allowed to judge from my own organs； it is
exactly that of bilge…water； and the saline taste of it seems to
declare that it is nothing else than salt water putrified in the
bowels of the earth。 I was obliged to hold my nose with one hand；
while I advanced the glass to my mouth with the other； and after
I had made shift to swallow it； my stomach could hardly retain
what it had received。 The only effects it produced were
sickness； griping； and insurmountable disgust。 I can hardly
mention it without puking。 The world is strangely misled by the
affectation of singularity。 I cannot help suspecting； that this
water owes its reputation in a great measure to its being so
strikingly offensive。 On the same kind of analogy； a German
doctor has introduced hemlock and other poisons； as specifics；
into the materia medica。 I am persuaded； that all the cures
ascribed to the Harrigate water； would have been as
efficaciously； and infinitely more agreeably performed； by the
internal and external use of seawater。 Sure I am； this last is
much less nauseous to the taste and smell； and much more gentle
in its operation as a purge； as well as more extensive in its
medical qualities。
Two days ago we went across the country to visit 'squire Burdock；
who married a first cousin of my father； an heiress； who brought
him an estate of a thousand a…year。 This gentleman is a declared
opponent of the ministry in parliament； and having an opulent
fortune； piques himself upon living in the country； and
maintaining old English hospitality By the bye； this is a phrase
very much used by the English themselves both in words and
writing； but I never heard of it out of the island； except by way
of irony and sarcasm。 What the hospitality of our forefathers has
been I should be glad to see recorded； rather in the memoirs of
strangers who have visited our country； and were the proper
objects and judges of such hospitality； than in the discourse and
lucubrations of the modern English； who seem to describe it from
theory and conjecture。 Certain it is； we are generally looked
upon by foreigners； as a people totally destitute of this virtue；
and I never was in any country abroad； where I did not meet with
persons of distinction； who complained of having been
inhospitably used in Great Britain。 A gentleman of France； Italy；
or Germany； who has entertained and lodged an Englishman at his
house； when he afterwards meets with his guest at London； is
asked to dinner at the Saracen's…head； the Turk's…head； the
Boar's…head； or the Bear； eats raw beef and butter； drinks
execrable port； and is allowed to pay his share of the reckoning。
But to return from this digression； which my feeling for the
honour of my country obliged me to make our Yorkshire cousin has
been a mighty fox…hunter before the Lord； but now he is too fat
and unwieldy to leap ditches and five…bar gates； nevertheless； he
still keeps a pack of hounds； which are well exercised； and his
huntsman every night entertains him with the adventures of the
day's chace； which he recites in a tone and terms that are
extremely curious and significant。 In the mean time； his broad
brawn is scratched by one of his grooms。 This fellow； it
seems； having no inclination to curry any beast out of the
stable； was at great pains to scollop his nails in such a manner
that the blood followed at every stroke。 He was in hopes that he
would be dismissed from this disagreeable office； but the event
turned out contrary to his expectation。 His master declared he
was the best scratcher in the family； and now he will not suffer
any other servant to draw a nail upon his carcase。
The 'squire's lady is very proud； without being stiff or
inaccessible。 She receives even her inferiors in point of fortune
with a kind of arrogant civility； but then she thinks she has a
right to treat them with the most ungracious freedoms of speech；
and never fails to let them know she is sensible of her own
superior affluence。 In a word； she speaks well of no living soul；
and has not one single friend in the world。 Her husband hates her
mortally； but； although the brute is sometimes so very powerful
in him that he will have his own way； he generally truckles to
her dominion； and dreads； like a school…boy； the lash of her
tongue。 On the other hand； she is afraid of provoking him too
far； lest he should make some desperate effort to shake off her
yoke。 She； therefore； acquiesces in the proofs he daily gives of
his attachment to the liberty of an English freeholder； by saying
and doing； at his own table； whatever gratifies the brutality of
his disposition； or contributes to the case of his person。 The
house； though large； is neither elegant nor comfortable。 It
looks like a great inn； crowded with travellers； who dine at the
landlord's ordinary； where there is a great profusion of victuals
and drink； but mine host seems to be misplaced； and I would
rather dine upon filberts with a hermit； than feed upon venison
with a hog。 The footmen might be aptly compared to the waiters of
a tavern； if they were more serviceable and less rapacious； but
they are generally insolent and inattentive； and so greedy； that；
I think； I can dine better； and for less expence； at the Star and
Garter in Pall mall； than at our cousin's castle in Yorkshire。
The 'squire is not only accommodated with a wife； but he is also
blessed with an only son； about two and twenty； just returned
from Italy； a complete fidler and dillettante； and he slips no
opportunity of manifesting the most perfect contempt for his own
father。
When we arrived； there was a family of foreigners at the house；
on a visit to this virtuoso； with whom they had been acquainted
at the Spa； it was the count de Melville； with his lady； on their
way to Scotland。 Mr Burdock had met with an accident； in
consequence of which both the count and I would have retired but
the young gentleman and his mother insisted upon our staying
dinner； and their serenity seemed to be so little ruffled by what
had happened； that we complied with their invitation。 The 'squire
had been brought home over night in his post…chaise； so terribly
belaboured about the pate； that he seemed to be in a state of
stupefaction； and had ever since remained speechless。 A country
apothecary； called Grieve； who lived in a neighbouring village；
having been called to his assistance； had let him blood； and
applied a poultice to his head； declaring； that he had no fever；
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