promises very little for the interior parts of the kingdom； but
the prospect mended as we advanced。 Passing through Dunbar； which
is a neat little town； situated on the sea…side； we lay at a
country inn； where our entertainment far exceeded our
expectation； but for this we cannot give the Scots credit； as the
landlord is a native of England。 Yesterday we dined at
Haddington； which has been a place of some consideration； but is
now gone to decay； and in the evening arrived at this metropolis；
of which I can say very little。 It is very romantic； from its
situation on the declivity of a hill； having a fortified castle
at the top； and a royal palace at the bottom。 The first thing
that strikes the nose of a stranger； shall be nameless； but what
first strikes the eye； is the unconscionable height of the
houses； which generally rise to five； six； seven； and eight
stories； and； in some places （as I am assured）； to twelve。 This
manner of building； attended with numberless inconveniences； must
have been originally owing to want of room。 Certain it is； the
town seems to be full of people： but their looks； their language；
and their customs； are so different from ours； that I can hardly
believe myself in Great…Britain。
The inn at which we put up （if it may be so called） was so filthy
and disagreeable in all respects； that my uncle began to fret；
and his gouty symptoms to recur Recollecting； however； that he
had a letter of recommendation to one Mr Mitchelson； a lawyer； he
sent it by his servant； with a compliment； importing that we
would wait upon him next day in person； but that gentleman
visited us immediately； and insisted upon our going to his own
house； until he could provide lodgings for our accommodation。 We
gladly accepted； of his invitation； and repaired to his house；
where we were treated with equal elegance and hospitality； to the
utter confusion of our aunt； whose prejudices； though beginning
to give way； were not yet entirely removed。 To…day； by the
assistance of our friend； we are settled in convenient lodgings；
up four pair of stairs； in the High…street； the fourth story
being； in this city； reckoned more genteel than the first。 The
air is； in all probability； the better； but it requires good
lungs to breathe it at this distance above the surface of the
earth。 While I do remain above it； whether higher or lower；
provided I breathe at all；
I shall ever be；
Dear Phillips； yours；
J。 MELFORD
July 18。
To Dr LEWIS。
DEAR LEWIS；
That part of Scotland contiguous to Berwick； nature seems to have
intended as a barrier between two hostile nations。 It is a brown
desert of considerable extent； that produces nothing but heath
and fern； and what rendered it the more dreary when we passed；
there was a thick fog that hindered us from seeing above twenty
yards from the carriage My sister began to make wry faces； and
use her smelling…bottle； Liddy looked blank； and Mrs Jenkins
dejected； but in a few hours these clouds were dissipated； the
sea appeared upon our right； and on the left the mountains
retired a little； leaving an agreeable plain betwixt them and the
beach； but； what surprised us all； this plain； to the extent of
several miles； was covered with as fine wheat as ever I saw in
the most fertile parts of South Britain This plentiful crop is
raised in the open field； without any inclosure； or other manure
than the alga marina； or seaweed； which abounds on this coast； a
circumstance which shews that the soil and climate are
favourable； but that agriculture in this country is not yet
brought to that perfection which it has attained in England。
Inclosures would not only keep the grounds warm； and the several
fields distinct； but would also protect the crop from the high
winds； which are so frequent in this part of the island。
Dunbar is well situated for trade； and has a curious bason； where
ships of small burthen may be perfectly secure； but there is
little appearance of business in the place From thence； all the
way to Edinburgh； there is a continual succession of fine seats；
belonging to noblemen and gentlemen； and as each is surrounded by
its own parks and plantation； they produce a very pleasing effect
in a country which lies otherwise open and exposed。 At Dunbar
there is a noble park； with a lodge； belonging to the Duke of
Roxburgh； where Oliver Cromwell had his head…quarters； when
Lesley； at the head of a Scotch army； took possession of the
mountains in the neighbourhood； and hampered him in such a
manner； that he would have been obliged to embark and get away by
sea； had not the fanaticism of the enemy forfeited the advantage
which they had obtained by their general's conduct Their
ministers； by exhortation； prayer； assurance； and prophecy；
instigated them to go down and slay the Philistines in Gilgal；
and they quitted their ground accordingly； notwithstanding all
that Lesley could do to restrain the madness of their enthusiasm
When Oliver saw them in motion； he exclaimed； 'Praised be the
Lord； he hath delivered them into the hands of his servant！' and
ordered his troops to sing a psalm of thanksgiving； while they
advanced in order to the plain； where the Scots were routed with
great slaughter。
In the neighbourhood of Haddington； there is a gentleman's house；
in the building of which； and the improvements about it； he is
said to have expended forty thousand pounds： but I cannot say I
was much pleased with either the architecture or the situation；
though it has in front a pastoral stream； the banks of which are
laid out in a very agreeable manner。 I intended to pay my
respects to Lord Elibank； whom I had the honour to know at London
many years ago。 He lives in this part of Lothian； but was gone to
the North； on a visit You have often heard me mention this
nobleman； whom I have long revered for his humanity and universal
intelligence； over and above the entertainment arising from
originality of his character At Musselburgh； however； I had the
good…fortune to drink tea with my old friend Mr Cardonel； and at
his house I met with Dr C； the parson of the parish； whose
humour and conversation inflamed me with a desire of being better
acquainted with his person I am not at all surprised that these
Scots make their way in every quarter of the globe。
This place is but four miles from Edinburgh； towards which we
proceeded along the sea…shore； upon a firm bottom of smooth sand；
which the tide had left uncovered in its retreat Edinburgh； from
this avenue； is not seen to much advantage We had only an
imperfect view of the Castle and upper parts of the town； which
varied incessantly according to the inflexions of the road； and
exhibited the appearance of detached spires and turrets；
belonging to some magnificent edifice in ruins。 The palace of
Holyrood house stands on the left； as you enter the Canon…gate
This is a street continued from hence to the gate called Nether
Bow； which is now taken away； so that there is no interruption
for a long mile； from the bottom to the top of the hill on which
the castle stands in a most imperial situation Considering its
fine pavement； its width； and the lofty houses on each side； this
would be undoubtedly one of the noblest streets in Europe； if an
ugly mass of mean buildings； called the Lucken…Booths； had not
thrust itself； by what accident I know not； into the middle of
the way； like Middle…Row in Holborn。 The city stands upon two
hills； and the bottom between them； and； with all its defects；
may very well pass for the capital of a moderate kingdom。 It is
full of people； and continually resounds with the noise of
coaches and other carriages； for luxury as well as commerce。 As
far as I can perceive； here is no want of provisions The beef
and mutton are as delicate here as in Wales； the sea affords
plenty of good fish； the bread is remarkably fine； and the water
is excellent； though I'm afraid not in sufficient quantity to
answer all the purposes of cleanliness and convenience； articles
in which； it must be allowed； our fellow…subjects are a little
defective The water is brought in leaden pipes from a mountain
in the neighbourhood； to a cistern on the Castle…hill； from
whence it is distributed to public conduits in different parts of
the city。 From these it is carried in barrels； on the backs of
male and female porters； up two； three； four； five； six； seven；
and eight pairs of stairs； for the use of particular families
Every story is a complete house； occupied by a separate family；
and the stair being common to them all； is generally left in a
very filthy condition； a man must tread with great circumspection
to get safe housed with unpolluted shoes Nothing can form a
stronger contrast； than the difference betwixt the outside and
inside of the door； for the good…women of this metropolis are
remarkably nice in the ornaments and propriety of their
apartments； as if they were resolved to transfer the imputation
from the individual to the public。 You are no stranger to their
method of discharging all their impurities from their windows； at
a certain hour of the night； as the custom is in Spain； Portugal；
and some parts of France and Italy A practice to which I can by
no means be reconciled； for notwithstanding all the care that is
taken by their scavengers to remove this nuisance every morning
by break of day； enough still remains to offend the eyes； as well
as other organs of those whom use has not hardened against all
delicacy of sensation。
The inhabitants seem insensible to these impressions； and are apt
to imagine the disgust that we avow is little better than
affectation； but they ought to have some compassion for
strangers； who have not been used to this kind of sufferance； and
consider； whether it may not be worth while to take some pains to
vindicate themselves from the reproach that； on this account；
they bear among their neighbours。 As to the surprising height of
their houses； it is absurd in many respects； but in one
particular light I cannot view it without horror； that is； the
dreadful situation of all the families above； in case the common
staircase should be rendered impassable by a fire in the lower
stories In