delicate Mrs Tabby changed colour； when the cause of our disgust
was instantaneously removed at the nod of our entertainer。 The
Scots； in general； are attached to this composition； with a sort
of national fondness； as well as to their oat…meal bread； which
is presented at every table； in thin triangular cakes； baked upon
a plate of iron； called a girdle； and these； many of the natives；
even in the higher ranks of life； prefer to wheaten…bread； which
they have here in perfection You know we used to vex poor Murray
of Baliol college； by asking； if there was really no fruit but
turnips in Scotland？ Sure enough； I have seen turnips make their
appearance； not as a desert； but by way of hors d'oeuvres； or
whets； as radishes are served betwixt more substantial dishes in
France and Italy； but it must be observed； that the turnips of
this country are as much superior in sweetness； delicacy； and
flavour； to those in England； as a musk…melon is to the stock of
a common cabbage。 They are small and conical； of a yellowish
colour； with a very thin skin and； over and above their agreeable
taste； are valuable for their antiscorbutic quality As to the
fruit now in season； such as cherries； gooseberries； and
currants； there is no want of them at Edinburgh； and in the
gardens of some gentlemen； who live in the neighbourhood； there
is now a very favourable appearance of apricots； peaches；
nectarines； and even grapes： nay； I have seen a very fine shew of
pineapples within a few miles of this metropolis。 Indeed； we have
no reason to be surprised at these particulars； when we consider
how little difference there is； in fact； betwixt this climate and
that of London。
All the remarkable places in the city and its avenues； for ten
miles around； we have visited； much to our satisfaction。 In the
Castle are some royal apartments； where the sovereign
occasionally resided； and here are carefully preserved the
regalia of the kingdom； consisting of a crown； said to be of
great value； a sceptre； and a sword of state； adorned with
jewels Of these symbols of sovereignty； the people are
exceedingly jealous A report being spread during the sitting of
the union…parliament； that they were removed to London； such a
tumult arose； that the lord commissioner would have been torn to
pieces； if he had not produced them for the satisfaction of the
populace。
The palace of Holyrood…house is an elegant piece of architecture；
but sunk in an obscure； and； as I take it； unwholesome bottom；
where one would imagine it had been placed on purpose to be
concealed。 The apartments are lofty； but unfurnished； and as for
the pictures of the Scottish kings； from Fergus I。 to king
William； they are paultry daubings； mostly by the same hand；
painted either from the imagination； or porters hired to sit for
the purpose。 All the diversions of London we enjoy at Edinburgh；
in a small compass。 Here is a well conducted concert； in which
several gentlemen perform on different instruments The Scots are
all musicians Every man you meet plays on the flute； the violin；
or violoncello； and there is one nobleman； whose compositions are
universally admired Our company of actors is very tolerable； and
a subscription is now on foot for building a new theatre； but
their assemblies please me above all other public exhibitions。
We have been at the hunters' ball； where I was really astonished
to see such a number of fine women The English； who have never
crossed the Tweed； imagine erroneously； that the Scotch ladies
are not remarkable for personal attractions； but； I can declare
with a safe conscience； I never saw so many handsome females
together； as were assembled on this occasion。 At the Leith races；
the best company comes hither from the remoter provinces； so
that； I suppose； we had all the beauty of the kingdom
concentrated as it were into one focus； which was； indeed； so
vehement； that my heart could hardly resist its power。 Between
friends； it has sustained some damage from the bright eyes of the
charming miss R＇ento＇n； whom I had the honour to dance with at
the ball The countess of Melville attracted all eyes； and the
admiration of all present She was accompanied by the agreeable
miss Grieve； who made many conquests； nor did my sister Liddy
pass unnoticed in the assembly She is become a toast at
Edinburgh； by the name of the Fair Cambrian； and has already been
the occasion of much wine…shed； but the poor girl met with an
accident at the ball； which has given us great disturbance。
A young gentleman； the express image of that rascal Wilson； went
up to ask her to dance a minuet； and his sudden appearance
shocked her so much； that she fainted away I call Wilson a
rascal； because； if he had been really a gentleman； with
honourable intentions； he would have； ere now； appeared in his
own character I must own； my blood boils with indignation when I
think of that fellow's presumption； and Heaven confound me if I
don't But I won't be so womanish as to rail Time will； perhaps；
furnish occasion Thank God； the cause of Liddy's disorder
remains a secret。 The lady directress of the ball； thinking she
was overcome by the heat of the place； had her conveyed to
another room； where she soon recovered so well； as to return and
join in the country dances； in which the Scotch lasses acquit
themselves with such spirit and agility； as put their partners to
the height of their mettle。 I believe our aunt； Mrs Tabitha； had
entertained hopes of being able to do some execution among the
cavaliers at this assembly。 She had been several days in
consultation with milliners and mantua…makers； preparing for the
occasion； at which she made her appearance in a full suit of
damask； so thick and heavy； that the sight of it alone； at this
season of the year； was sufficient to draw drops of sweat from
any man of ordinary imagination She danced one minuet with our
friend Mr Mitchelson； who favoured her so far； in the spirit of
hospitality and politeness； and she was called out a second time
by the young laird of Ballymawhawple； who； coming in by accident；
could not readily find any other partner； but as the first was a
married man； and the second payed no particular homage to her
charms； which were also over…looked by the rest of the company；
she became dissatisfied and censorious At supper； she observed
that the Scotch gentlemen made a very good figure； when they were
a little improved by travelling； and therefore it was pity they
did not all take the benefit of going abroad。 She said the women
were awkward； masculine creatures； that； in dancing； they lifted
their legs like so many colts； that they had no idea of graceful
motion； and put on their clothes in a frightful manner； but if
the truth must be told； Tabby herself was the most ridiculous
figure； and the worst dressed of the whole assembly。 The neglect
of the male sex rendered her malcontent and peevish； she now
found fault with every thing at Edinburgh； and teized her brother
to leave the place； when she was suddenly reconciled to it on a
religious consideration There is a sect of fanaticks； who have
separated themselves from the established kirk； under the name of
Seceders They acknowledge no earthly head of the church； reject
lay…patronage； and maintain the methodist doctrines of the new
birth； the new light； the efficacy of grace； the insufficiency of
works； and the operations of the spirit。 Mrs Tabitha； attended by
Humphry Clinker； was introduced to one of their conventicles；
where they both received much edification； and she has had the
good fortune to come acquainted with a pious Christian； called Mr
Moffat； who is very powerful in prayer； and often assists her in
private exercises of devotion。
I never saw such a concourse of genteel company at any races in
England； as appeared on the course of Leith Hard by； in the
fields called the Links； the citizens of Edinburgh divert
themselves at a game called golf； in which they use a curious
kind of bats； tipt with horn； and small elastic balls of leather；
stuffed with feathers； rather less than tennis balls； but of a
much harder consistence This they strike with such force and
dexterity from one hole to another； that they will fly to an
incredible distance。 Of this diversion the Scots are so fond；
that when the weather will permit； you may see a multitude of all
ranks； from the senator of justice to the lowest tradesman；
mingled together in their shirts； and following the balls with
the utmost eagerness。 Among others； I was shewn one particular set
of golfers； the youngest of whom was turned of fourscore They
were all gentlemen of independent fortunes； who had amused
themselves with this pastime for the best part of a century；
without having ever felt the least alarm from sickness or
disgust； and they never went to bed； without having each the best
part of a gallon of claret in his belly。 Such uninterrupted
exercise； co…operating with the keen air from the sea； must；
without all doubt； keep the appetite always on edge； and steel
the constitution against all the common attacks of distemper。
The Leith races gave occasion to another entertainment of a very
singular nature There is at Edinburgh a society or corporation
of errand…boys； called cawdies； who ply in the streets at night
with paper lanthorns； and are very serviceable in carrying
messages These fellows； though shabby in their appearance； and
rudely familiar in their address； are wonderfully acute； and so
noted for fidelity； that there is no instance of ＇a＇ cawdy's
having betrayed his trust Such is their intelligence； that they
know； not only every individual of the place； but also every
stranger； by that time he has been four and twenty hours in
Edinburgh； and no transaction； even the most private； can escape
their notice。 They are particularly famous for their dexterity in
executing one of the functions of Mercury； though； for my own
part； I never employed them in this department of business Had I
occasion for any service of this nature； my own man； Archy
M'Alpine； is as well qualified as e'er a cawdie in Edinburgh； and
I am much mistaken； if he has not been heretofore of their
fraternity。 Be tha