laird in person； the laird's brother； the laird's brother's son；
the laird's sister's son； the laird's father's brother's son； and
all their foster brothers； who are counted parcel of the family：
but we were attended by an infinite number of Gaelly's； or ragged
Highlanders without shoes or stockings。
The following articles formed our morning's repast： one kit of
boiled eggs； a second； full of butter； a third full of cream； an
entire cheese； made of goat's milk； a large earthen pot full of
honey； the best part of a ham； a cold venison pasty； a bushel of
oat meal； made in thin cakes and bannocks； with a small wheaten
loaf in the middle for the strangers； a large stone bottle full
of whisky； another of brandy； and a kilderkin of ale。 There was
a ladle chained to the cream kit； with curious wooden bickers to
be filled from this reservoir。 The spirits were drank out of a
silver quaff； and the ale out of hems： great justice was done to
the collation by the guest in general； one of them in particular
ate above two dozen of hard eggs； with a proportionable quantity
of bread； butter； and honey； nor was one drop of liquor left upon
the board。 Finally； a large roll of tobacco was presented by way
of desert； and every individual took a comfortable quid； to
prevent the bad effects of the morning air。 We had a fine chace
over the mountains； after a roebuck； which we killed； and I got
home time enough to drink tea with Mrs Campbell and our 'squire。
To…morrow we shall set out on our return for Cameron。 We propose
to cross the Frith of Clyde； and take the towns of Greenock and
Port…Glasgow in our way。 This circuit being finished； we shall
turn our faces to the south； and follow the sun with augmented
velocity； in order to enjoy the rest of the autumn in England；
where Boreas is not quite so biting as he begins already to be on
the tops of these northern hills。 But our progress from place to
place shall continue to be specified in these detached journals of
Yours always；
J。 MELFORD
ARGYLSHIRE； Sept。 3。
To Dr LEWIS。
DEAR DICK；
About a fortnight is now elapsed； since we left the capital of
Scotland； directing our course towards Stirling； where we lay。 The
castle of this place is such another as that of Edinburgh； and
affords a surprising prospect of the windings of the river Forth；
which are so extraordinary； that the distance from hence to Alloa
by land； is but forty miles； and by water it is twenty…four。
Alloa is a neat thriving town； that depends in a great measure on
the commerce of Glasgow； the merchants of which send hither
tobacco and other articles； to be deposited in warehouses for
exportation from the Frith of Forth。 In our way hither we visited
a flourishing iron…work； where； instead of burning wood； they use
coal； which they have the art of clearing in such a manner as
frees it from the sulphur； that would otherwise render the metal
too brittle for working。 Excellent coal is found in almost every
part of Scotland。
The soil of this district produces scarce any other grain but
oats； lid barley； perhaps because it is poorly cultivated； and
almost altogether uninclosed。 The few inclosures they have
consist of paultry walls of loose stones gathered from the
fields； which indeed they cover； as if they had been scattered on
purpose。 When I expressed my surprize that the peasants did not
disencumber their grounds of these stones； a gentleman； well
acquainted with the theory as well as practice of farming；
assured me that the stones； far from being prejudicial； were
serviceable to the crop。 This philosopher had ordered a field of
his own to be cleared； manured and sown with barley； and the
produce was more scanty than before。 He caused the stones to be
replaced； and next year the crop was as good as ever。 The stones
were removed a second time； and the harvest failed； they were
again brought back； and the ground retrieved its fertility。 The
same experiment has been tried in different parts of Scotland
with the same successAstonished at this information； I desired
to know in what manner he accounted for this strange phenomenon；
and he said there were three ways in which the stones might be
serviceable。 They might possibly restrain an excess in the
perspiration of the earth； analogous to colliquative sweats； by
which the human body is sometimes wasted and consumed。 They might
act as so many fences to protect the tender blade from the
piercing winds of the spring； or； by multiplying the reflexion of
the sun； they might increase the warmth； so as to mitigate the
natural chilness of the soil and climate But； surely this
excessive perspiration might be more effectually checked by
different kinds of manure； such as ashes； lime； chalk； or marl；
of which last it seems there are many pits in this kingdom： as
for the warmth； it would be much more equally obtained by
inclosures； the cultivation would require less labour； and the
ploughs； harrows； and horses； would not suffer half the damage
which they now sustain。
These north…western parts are by no means fertile in corn。 The
ground is naturally barren and moorish。 The peasants are poorly
lodged； meagre in their looks； mean in their apparel； and
remarkably dirty。 This last reproach they might easily wash off；
by means of those lakes； rivers； and rivulets of pure water； with
which they are so liberally supplied by nature。 Agriculture
cannot be expected to flourish where the farms are small； the
leases short； and the husbandman begins upon a rack rent； without
a sufficient stock to answer the purposes of improvement。 The
granaries of Scotland are the banks of the Tweed； the counties of
East and Mid…Lothian； the Carse of Gowrie； in Perthshire； equal
in fertility to any part of England； and some tracts in
Aberdeenshire and Murray； where I am told the harvest is more
early than in Northumberland； although they lie above two degrees
farther north。 I have a strong curiosity to visit many places
beyond the Forth and the Tay； such as Perth； Dundee； Montrose；
and Aberdeen； which are towns equally elegant and thriving； but
the season is too far advanced to admit of this addition to my
original plan。
I am so far happy as to have seen Glasgow； which； to the best of
my recollection and judgment； is one of the prettiest towns in
Europe； and； without all doubt； it is one of the most flourishing
in Great Britain。 In short； it is a perfect bee…hive in point of
industry。 It stands partly on a gentle declivity； but the
greatest part of it is in a plain； watered by the river Clyde。
The streets are straight； open； airy； and well paved； and the
houses lofty and well built of hewn stone。 At the upper end of
the town； there is a venerable cathedral； that may be compared
with York…minster or West…minster； and； about the middle of the
descent from this to the Cross； is the college； a respectable
pile of building； with all manner of accommodation for the
professors and students； including an elegant library； and a
observatory well provided with astronomical instruments。 The
number of inhabitants is said to amount to thirty thousand； and
marks of opulence and independency appear in every quarter of
this commercial city； which； however； is not without its
inconveniences and defects。 The water of their public pumps is
generally hard and brackish； an imperfection the loss excusable；
as the river Clyde runs by their doors； in the lower part of the
town； and there are rivulets and springs above the cathedral；
sufficient to fill a large reservoir with excellent water； which
might be thence distributed to all the different parts of the
city。 It is of more consequence to consult the health of the
inhabitants in this article than to employ so much attention in
beautifying their town with new streets； squares； and churches。
Another defect； not so easily remedied； is the shallowness of the
river； which will not float vessels of any burthen within ten or
twelve miles of the city； so that the merchants are obliged to
load and unload their ships at Greenock and Port…Glasgow；
situated about fourteen miles nearer the mouth of the Frith；
where it is about two miles broad。
The people of Glasgow have a noble spirit of enterprise Mr
Moore； a surgeon； to whom I was recommended from Edinburgh；
introduced me to all the principal merchants of the place。 Here I
became acquainted with Mr Cochran； who may be stiled one of the
sages of this kingdom。 He was first magistrate at the time of the
last rebellion。 I sat as member when he was examined in the house
of commons； upon which occasion Mr P observed he had never
heard such a sensible evidence given at that bar。 I was also
introduced to Dr John Gordon； a patriot of a truly Roman spirit；
who is the father of the linen manufacture in this place； and was
the great promoter of the city workhouse； infirmary； and other
works of public utility。 Had he lived in ancient Rome； he would
have been honoured with a statue at the public expence。 I
moreover conversed with one Mr Gssfd； whom I take to be one
of the greatest merchants in Europe。 In the last war； he is said
to have had at one time five and twenty ships with their cargoes；
his own property； and to have traded for above half a million
sterling a…year。 The last war was a fortunate period for the
commerce of Glasgow The merchants； considering that their ships
bound for America； launching out at once into the Atlantic by the
north of Ireland； pursued a track very little frequented by
privateers； resolved to insure one another； and saved a very
considerable sum by this resolution； as few or none of their
ships were taken You must know I have a sort of national
attachment to this part of Scotland The great church dedicated
to St Mongah； the river Clyde； and other particulars that smack
of our Welch language and customs； contribute to flatter me with
the notion； that these people are the descendants of the Britons；
who once possessed this country。 Without all question； this was a
Cumbrian kingdom： its capital was Dumbarton （a corruption of
Dunbritton） which still exists as a royal borough； at the influx
of the Clyde and Leven； ten miles below Glasgow。 The same
neighbourhood gave birth to St Patri