the winter cold； which must be extreme on these mountains I am
told that it is given with great success to infants； as a cordial
in the confluent smallpox； when the eruption seems to flag； and
the symptoms grow unfavourable The Highlanders are used to eat
much more animal food than falls to the share of their neighbours
in the Low…country They delight in hunting； have plenty of deer
and other game； with a great number of sheep； goats； and black…cattle
running wild； which they scruple not to kill as vension；
without being much at pains to ascertain the property。
Inverary is but a poor town； though it stands immediately under
the protection of the duke of Argyle； who is a mighty prince in
this part of Scotland。 The peasants live in wretched cabins； and
seem very poor； but the gentlemen are tolerably well lodged； and
so loving to strangers； that a man runs some risque of his life
from their hospitality It must be observed that the poor
Highlanders are now seen to disadvantage。 They have been not only
disarmed by act of parliament； but also deprived of their ancient
garb； which was both graceful and convenient； and what is a
greater hardship still； they are compelled to wear breeches； a
restraint which they cannot bear with any degree of patience：
indeed； the majority wear them； not in the proper place； but on
poles or long staves over their shoulders They are even debarred
the use of their striped stuff called Tartane； which was their
own manufacture； prized by them above all the velvets； brocades；
and tissues of Europe and Asia。 They now lounge along in loose
great coats； of coarse russet； equally mean and cumbersome； and
betray manifest marks of dejection Certain it is； the government
could not have taken a more effectual method to break their
national spirit。
We have had princely sport in hunting the stag on these mountains。
These are the lonely hills of Morven； where Fingal and his heroes
enjoyed the same pastime； I feel an enthusiastic pleasure when I
survey the brown heath that Ossian wont to tread； and hear the
wind whistle through the bending grass When I enter our
landlord's hall； I look for the suspended harp of that divine
bard； and listen in hopes of hearing the aerial sound of his
respected spirit The poems of Ossian are in every mouth A
famous antiquarian of this country； the laird of Macfarlane； at
whose house we dined a few days ago； can repeat them all in the
original Gallick； which has a great affinity to the Welch； not
only in the general sound； but also in a great number of radical
words； and I make no doubt that they are both sprung from the
same origin。 I was not a little surprised； when asking a
Highlander one day； if he knew where we should find any game？ he
replied； 'hu niel Sassenagh'； which signifies no English： the
very same answer I should have received from a Welchman； and
almost in the same words。 The Highlanders have no other name for
the people of the Low…country； but Sassenagh； or Saxons； a strong
presumption； that the Lowland Scots and the English are derived
from the same stock The peasants of these hills strongly
resemble those of Wales in their looks； their manners； and
habitations； every thing I see ； and hear； and feel； seems Welch
The mountains； vales； and streams； the air and climate； the
beef； mutton； and game； are all Welch It must be owned； however；
that this people are better Provided than we in some articles
They have plenty of red deer and roebuck； which are fat and
delicious at this season of the year。 Their sea teems with amazing
quantities of the finest fish in the world。 and they find means
to procure very good claret at a very small expence。
Our landlord is a man of consequence in this part of the country；
a cadet from the family of Argyle and hereditary captain of one
of his castles His name； in plain English； is Dougal Campbell；
but as there is a great number of the same appellation； they are
distinguished （like the Welch） by patronimics； and as I have
known an antient Briton called Madoc ap…Morgan ap…Jenkin； ap…Jones；
our Highland chief designs himself Dou'l Mac…amish mac…'oul ichian；
signifying Dougal； the son of James； the son of
Dougal； the son of John。 He has travelled in the course of his
education； and is disposed to make certain alterations in his
domestic oeconomy； but he finds it impossible to abolish the
ancient customs of the family； some of which are ludicrous
enough His piper for example； who is an hereditary officer of
the household； will not part with the least particle of his
privileges。 He has a right to wear the kilt； or ancient Highland
dress； with the purse； pistol； and durk a broad yellow ribbon；
fixed to the chanter…pipe； is thrown over his shoulder； and
trails along the ground； while he performs the function of his
minstrelsy； and this； I suppose； is analogous to the pennon or
flag which was formerly carried before every knight in battle。
He plays before the laird every Sunday in his way to the kirk；
which he circles three times； performing the family march which
implies defiance to all the enemies of the clan； and every
morning he plays a full hour by the clock； in the great hall；
marching backwards and forwards all the time； with a solemn pace；
attended by the laird's kinsmen； who seem much delighted with the
music In this exercise； he indulges them with a variety of
pibrochs or airs； suited to the different passions； which he
would either excite or assuage。
Mr Campbell himself； who performs very well on the violin； has an
invincible antipathy to the sound of the Highland bagpipe； which
sings in the nose with a most alarming twang； and； indeed； is
quite intolerable to ears of common sensibility； when aggravated
by the echo of a vaulted hall He therefore begged the piper
would have some mercy upon him； and dispense with this part of
the morning service A consultation of the clan being held on
this occasion； it was unanimously agreed； that the laird's
request could not be granted without a dangerous encroachment
upon the customs of the family The piper declared； he could not
give up for a moment the privilege he derived from his ancestors；
nor would the laird's relations forego an entertainment which
they valued above all others There was no remedy； Mr Campbell；
being obliged to acquiesce； is fain to stop his ears with cotton；
to fortify his head with three or four night…caps and every
morning retire into the penetralia of his habitation； in order to
avoid this diurnal annoyance。 When the music ceases； he produces
himself at an open window that looks into the courtyard； which is
by this time filled with a crowd of his vassals and dependents；
who worship his first appearance； by uncovering their heads； and
bowing to the earth with the most humble prostration。 As all
these people have something to communicate in the way of
proposal； complaint； or petition； they wait patiently till the
laird comes forth； and； following him in his walks； are favoured
each with a short audience in his turn。 Two days ago； he
dispatched above an hundred different sollicitors； in walking
with us to the house of a neighbouring gentleman； where we dined
by invitation。 Our landlord's housekeeping is equally rough and
hospitable； and savours much of the simplicity of ancient times：
the great hall； paved with flat stones； is about forty…five feet
by twenty…two； and serves not only for a dining…room； but also
for a bedchamber； to gentlemen…dependents and hangers…on of the
family。 At night； half a dozen occasional beds are ranged on each
side along the wall。 These are made of fresh heath； pulled up by
the roots； and disposed in such a manner as to make a very
agreeable couch； where they lie； without any other covering than
the plaid My uncle and I were indulged with separate chambers
and down beds which we begged to exchange for a layer of heath；
and indeed I never slept so much to my satisfaction。 It was not
only soft and elastic； but the plant； being in flower； diffused
an agreeable fragrance； which is wonderfully refreshing and
restorative。
Yesterday we were invited to the funeral of an old lady； the
grandmother of a gentleman in this neighbourhood； and found
ourselves in the midst of fifty people； who were regaled with a
sumptuous feast； accompanied by the music of a dozen pipers。 In
short； this meeting had all the air of a grand festival； and the
guests did such honour to the entertainment； that many of them
could not stand when we were reminded of the business on which
we had met。 The company forthwith taking horse； rode in a very
irregular cavalcade to the place of interment； a church； at the
distance of two long miles from the castle。 On our arrival；
however； we found we had committed a small oversight； in leaving
the corpse behind； so we were obliged to wheel about； and met the
old gentlewoman half way； being carried upon poles by the nearest
relations of her family； and attended by the coronach； composed
of a multitude of old hags； who tore their hair； beat their
breasts； and howled most hideously。 At the grave； the orator； or
senachie； pronounced the panegyric of the defunct； every period
being confirmed by a yell of the coronach。 The body was committed
to the earth； the pipers playing a pibroch all the time； and all
the company standing uncovered。 The ceremony was closed with the
discharge of pistols； then we returned to the castle； resumed the
bottle； and by midnight there was not a sober person in the
family； the females excepted。 The 'squire and I were； with some
difficulty； permitted to retire with our landlord in the evening；
but our entertainer was a little chagrined at our retreat； and
afterwards seemed to think it a disparagement to his family； that
not above a hundred gallons of whisky had been drunk upon such a
solemn occasion。 This morning we got up by four； to hunt the
roebuck； and； in half an hour； found breakfast ready served in
the hall。 The hunters consisted of Sir George Colquhoun and me；
as strangers （my uncle not chusing to be of the party）； of the
laird in person； the laird's brother； the laird's brother's son；
the laird's sister's son； the laird's father's brother's son； and