estone rock or the dark holes and chasms with which it abounds。 These precipices are enabled to sustain such an amount of vegetation by their peculiar structure。 Their surfaces are very irregular； broken into holes and fissures； with ledges overhanging the mouths of gloomy caverns； but from each projecting part have descended stalactites； often forming a wild gothic tracery over the caves and receding hollows； and affording an admirable support to the roots of the shrubs； trees； and creepers； which luxuriate in the warm pure atmosphere and the gentle moisture which constantly exudes from the rocks。 In places where the precipice offers smooth surfaces of solid rock； it remains quite bare； or only stained with lichens； and dotted with clumps of ferns that grow on the small ledges and in the minutest crevices。
The reader who is familiar with tropical nature only through the medium of books and botanical gardens will picture to himself in such a spot many other natural beauties。 He will think that I have unaccountably forgotten to mention the brilliant flowers； which； in gorgeous masses of crimson； gold or azure； must spangle these verdant precipices； hang over the cascade； and adorn the margin of the mountain stream。 But what is the reality？ In vain did I gaze over these vast walls of verdure； among the pendant creepers and bushy shrubs； all around the cascade on the river's bank； or in the deep caverns and gloomy fissuresnot one single spot of bright colour could be seen； not one single tree or bush or creeper bore a flower sufficiently conspicuous to form an object in the landscape。 In every direction the eye rested on green foliage and mottled rock。 There was infinite variety in the colour and aspect of the foliage； there was grandeur in the rocky masses and in the exuberant luxuriance of the vegetation； but there was no brilliancy of colour； none of those bright flowers and gorgeous masses of blossom so generally considered to be everywhere present in the tropics。 I have here given an accurate sketch of a luxuriant tropical scene as noted down on the spot； and its general characteristics as regards colour have been so often repeated； both in South America and over many thousand miles in the Eastern tropics； that I am driven to conclude that it represents the general aspect of nature at the equatorial （that is； the most tropical） parts of the tropical regions。
How is it then； that the descriptions of travellers generally give a very different idea？ and where； it may be asked； are the glorious flowers that we know do exist in the tropics？ These questions can be easily answered。 The fine tropical flowering… plants cultivated in our hothouses have been culled from the most varied regions； and therefore give a most erroneous idea of their abundance in any one region。 Many of them are very rare； others extremely local； while a considerable number inhabit the more arid regions of Africa and India； in which tropical vegetation does not exhibit itself in its usual luxuriance。 Fine and varied foliage； rather than gay flowers； is more characteristic of those parts where tropical vegetation attains its highest development； and in such districts each kind of flower seldom lasts in perfection more than a few weeks； or sometimes a few days。 In every locality a lengthened residence will show an abundance of magnificent and gaily…blossomed plants； but they have to be sought for； and are rarely at any one time or place so abundant as to form a perceptible feature in the landscape。 But it has been the custom of travellers to describe and group together all the fine plants they have met with during a long journey； and thus produce the effect of a gay and flower… painted landscape。 They have rarely studied and described individual scenes where vegetation was most luxuriant and beautiful； and fairly stated what effect was produced in them by flowers。 I have done so frequently； and the result of these examinations has convinced me that the bright colours of flowers have a much greater influence on the general aspect of nature in temperate than in tropical climates。 During twelve years spent amid the grandest tropical vegetation； I have seen nothing comparable to the effect produced on our landscapes by gorse； broom； heather； wild hyacinths； hawthorn； purple orchises； and buttercups。
The geological structure of this part of Celebes is interesting。 The limestone mountains； though of great extent； seem to be entirely superficial； resting on a basis of basalt which in some places forms low rounded hills between the more precipitous mountains。 In the rocky beds of the streams basalt is almost always found； and it is a step in this rock which forms the cascade already described。 From it the limestone precipices rise abruptly； and in ascending the little stairway along the side of the fall； you step two or three times from tpe of rock on to the otherthe limestone dry and rough； being worn by the water and rains into sharp ridges and honeycombed holesthe basalt moist； even； and worn smooth and slippery by the passage of bare… footed pedestrians。 The solubility of the limestone by rain…water is well seen in the little blocks and peaks which rise thickly through the soil of the alluvial plains as you approach the mountains。 They are all skittle…shaped； larger in the middle than at the base； the greatest diameter occurring at the height to which the country is flooded in the wet season； and thence decreasing regularly to the ground。 Many of them overhang considerably； and some of the slenderer pillars appear to stand upon a point。 When the rock is less solid it becomes curiously honeycombed by the rains of successive winters； and I noticed some masses reduced to a complete network of stone through which light could be seen in every direction。
From these mountains to the sea extends a perfectly flat alluvial plain； with no indication that water would accumulate at a great depth beneath it； yet the authorities at Macassar have spent much money in boring a well a thousand feet deep in hope of getting a supply of water like that obtained by the Artesian wells in the London and Paris basins。 It is not to be wondered at that the attempt was unsuccessful。
Returning to my forest hut； I continued my daily search after birds and insects。 The weather； however； became dreadfully hot and dry； every drop of water disappearing from the pools and rock… holes； and with it the insects which frequented them。 Only one group remained unaffected by the intense drought； the Diptera； or two…winged flies； continued as plentifully as ever； and on these I was almost compelled to concentrate my attention for a week or two； by which means I increased my collection of that Order to about two hundred species。 I also continued to obtain a few new birds； among which were two or three kinds of small hawks and falcons； a beautiful brush…tongued paroquet； Trichoglossus ornatus； and a rare black and white crow； Corvus advena。
At length； about the middle of October； after several gloomy days； down came a deluge of rain which continued to fall almost every afternoon； showing that the early part of the wet season had commenced。 I hoped now to get a good harvest of insects； and in some respects I was not disappointed。 Beetles became much more numerous； and under a thick bed of leaves that had accumulated on some rocks by the side of a forest stream； I found an abundance of Carbidae； a family generally scarce in the tropics。 The butterflies； however； disappeared。 Two of my servants were attacked with fever； dysentery； and swelled feet； just at the time that the third had left me； and for some days they both lay groaning in the house。 When they got a little better I was attacked myself； and as my stores were nearly finished and everything was getting very damp； I was obliged to prepare for my return to Macassar； especially as the strong westerly winds would render the passage in a small open boat disagreeable； if not dangerous。
Since the rains began； numbers of huge millipedes； as thick as one's finger and eight or ten inches long； crawled about everywherein the paths； on trees； about the houseand one morning when I got up I even found one in my bed！ They were generally of a dull lead colour or of a deep brick red； and were very nasty…looking things to be coming everywhere in one's way； although quite harmless。 Snakes too began to show themselves。 I killed two of a very abundant speciesbig…headed； and of a bright green colour； which lie coiled up on leaves and shrubs and can scarcely be seen until one is close upon them。 Brown snakes got into my net while beating among dead leaves for insects； and made me rather cautious about inserting my hand until I knew what kind of game I had captured。 The fields and meadows which had been parched and sterile； now became suddenly covered with fine long grass； the river…bed where I had so many times walked over burning rocks； was now a deep and rapid stream； and numbers of herbaceous plants and shrubs were everywhere springing up and bursting into flower。 I found plenty of new insects； and if I had had a good； roomy； water…and…wind…proof house； I should perhaps have stayed during the wet season； as I feel sure many things can then be obtained which are to be found at no other time。 With my summer hut； however； this was impossible。 During the heavy rains a fine drizzly mist penetrated into every part of it； and I began to have the greatest difficulty in keeping my specimens dry。
Early in November I returned to Macassar； and having packed up my collections； started in the Dutch mail steamer for Amboyna and Ternate。 Leaving this part of my journey for the present； I will in the next chapter conclude my account of Celebes； by describing the extreme northern part of the island which I visited two years later。
CHAPTER XVII。
CELEBES。
（MENADO。 JUNE TO SEPTEMBER； 1859。）
IT was after my residence at Timor…Coupang that I visited the northeastern extremity of Celebes； touching Banda； Amboyna； and Ternate on my way。 I reached Menado on the 10th of June； 1859； and was very kindly received by Mr。 Tower； an Englishman； but a very old resident in Menado； where he carries on a general business。 He introduced me to Mr。 L。 Duivenboden （whose father had been my fri