carries on a general business。 He introduced me to Mr。 L。 Duivenboden （whose father had been my friend at Ternate）； who had much taste for natural history； and to Mr。 Neys； a native of Menado； but who was educated at Calcutta； and to whom Dutch； English； and Malay were equally mother…tongues。 All these gentlemen showed me the greatest kindness； accompanied me in my earliest walks about the country； and assisted me by every means in their power。 I spent a week in the town very pleasantly； making explorations and inquiries after a good collecting station； which I had much difficulty in finding； owing to the wide cultivation of coffee and cacao； which has led to the clearing away of the forests for many miles around the town； and over extensive districts far into the interior。
The little town of Menado is one of the prettiest in the East。 It has the appearance of a large garden containing rows of rustic villas with broad paths between； forming streets generally at right angles with each other。 Good roads branch off in several directions towards the interior； with a succession of pretty cottages； neat gardens； and thriving plantations； interspersed with wildernesses of fruit trees。 To the west and south the country is mountainous； with groups of fine volcanic peaks 6；000 or 7；000 feet high； forming grand and picturesque backgrounds to the landscape。
The inhabitants of Minahasa （as this part of Celebes is called） differ much from those of all the rest of the island； and in fact from any other people in the Archipelago。 They are of a light… brown or yellow tint； often approaching the fairness of a European； of a rather short stature； stout and well…made； of an open and pleasing countenance； more or less disfigured as age increases by projecting check…bones； and with the usual long； straight； jet…black hair of the Malayan races。 In some of the inland villages where they may be supposed to be of the purest race； both men and women are remarkably handsome； while nearer the coasts where the purity of their blood has been destroyed by the intermixture of other races； they approach to the ordinary types of the wild inhabitants of the surrounding countries。
In mental and moral characteristics they are also highly peculiar。 They are remarkably quiet and gentle in disposition； submissive to the authority of those they consider their superiors； and easily induced to learn and adopt the habits of civilized people。 They are clever mechanics； and seem capable of acquiring a considerable amount of intellectual education。
Up to a very recent period these people were thorough savages； and there are persons now living in Menado who remember a state of things identical with that described by the writers of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries。 The inhabitants of the several villages were distinct tribes； each under its own chief； speaking languages unintelligible to each other； and almost always at war。 They built their houses elevated upon lofty posts to defend themselves from the attacks of their enemies。 They were headhunters like the Dyaks of Borneo； and were said to be sometimes cannibals。 When a chief died； his tomb was adorned with two fresh human heads； and if those of enemies could not be obtained； slaves were killed for the occasion。 Human skulls were the great ornaments of the chiefs' houses。 Strips of bark were their only dress。 The country was a pathless wilderness； with small cultivated patches of rice and vegetables； or clumps of fruit…trees； diversifying the otherwise unbroken forest。 Their religion was that naturally engendered in the undeveloped human mind by the contemplation of grand natural phenomena and the luxuriance of tropical nature。 The burning mountain； the torrent and the lake； were the abode of their deities； and certain trees and birds were supposed to have special influence over men's actions and destiny。 They held wild and exciting festivals to propitiate these deities or demons； and believed that men could be changed by them into animalseither during life or after death。
Here we have a picture of true savage life； of small isolated communities at war with all around them； subject to the wants and miseries of such a condition； drawing a precarious existence from the luxuriant soil； and living on； from generation to generation； with no desire for physical amelioration； and no prospect of moral advancement。
Such was their condition down to the year 1822； when the coffee… plant was first introduced； and experiments were made as to its cultivation。 It was found to succeed admirably from fifteen hundred feet； up to four thousand feet above the sea。 The chiefs of villages were induced to undertake its cultivation。 Seed and native instructors were sent from Java； food was supplied to the labourers engaged in clearing and planting； a fixed price was established at which all coffee brought to the government collectors was to be paid for； and the village chiefs who now received the titles of 〃Majors〃 were to receive five percent of the produce。 After a time； roads were made from the port of Menado up to the plateau； and smaller paths were cleared from village to village； missionaries settled in the more populous districts and opened schools； and Chinese traders penetrated to the interior and supplied clothing and other luxuries in exchange for the money which the sale of the coffee had produced。
At the same time； the country was divided into districts； and the system of 〃Controlleurs；〃 which had worked so well in Java； was introduced。 The 〃Controlleur 〃was a European； or a native of European blood； who was the general superintendent of the cultivation of the district； the adviser of the chiefs； the protector of the people； and the means of communication between both and the European Government。 His duties obliged him to visit every village in succession once a month； and to send in a report on their condition to the Resident。 As disputes between adjacent villages were now settled by appeal to a superior authority； the old and inconvenient semi…fortified houses were disused； and under the direction of the 〃Controlleurs〃 most of the houses were rebuilt on a neat and uniform plan。 It was this interesting district which I was now about to visit。
Having decided on my route； I started at 8 A。M。 on the 22d of June。 Mr。 Tower drove me the first three miles in his chaise； and Mr。 Neys accompanied me on horseback three miles further to the village of Lotta。 Here we met the Controlleur of the district of Tondano； who was returning home from one of his monthly tours； and who had agreed to act as my guide and companion on the journey。 From Lotta we had an almost continual ascent for six miles； which brought us on to the plateau of Tondano at an elevation of about 2；400 feet。 We passed through three villages whose neatness and beauty quite astonished me。 The main road； along which all the coffee is brought down from the interior in carts drawn by buffaloes； is always turned aside at the entrance of a village； so as to pass behind it； and thus allow the village street itself to be kept neat and clean。 This is bordered by neat hedges often formed entirely of rose…trees； which are perpetually in blossom。 There is a broad central path and a border of fine turf； which is kept well swept and neatly cut。 The houses are all of wood； raised about six feet on substantial posts neatly painted blue； while the walls are whitewashed。 They all have a verandah enclosed with a neat balustrade； and are generally surrounded by orange…trees and flowering shrubs。 The surrounding scenery is verdant and picturesque。 Coffee plantations of extreme luxuriance； noble palms and tree ferns； wooded hills and volcanic peaks； everywhere meet the eye。 I had heard much of the beauty of this country； but the reality far surpassed my expectations。
About one o'clock we reached Tomohón； the chief place of a district； having a native chief now called the 〃Major；〃 at whose house we were to dine。 Here was a fresh surprise for me。 The house was large； airy and very substantially built of hard native timber； squared and put together in a most workmanlike manner。 It was furnished in European style； with handsome chandelier lamps； and the chairs and tables all well made by native workmen。 As soon as we entered； madeira and bitters were offered us。 Then two handsome boys neatly dressed in white； and with smoothly brushed jet…black hair； handed us each a basin of water and a clean napkin on a salver。 The dinner was excellent。 Fowls cooked in various ways； wild pig roasted； stewed and fried； a fricassee of bats； potatoes； rice and other vegetables； all served on good china； with finger glasses and fine napkins； and abundance of good claret and beer； seemed to me rather curious at the table of a native chief on the mountains of Celebes。 Our host was dressed in a suit of black with patent…leather shoes； and really looked comfortable and almost gentlemanly in them。 He sat at the head of the table and did the honours well； though he did not talk much。 Our conversation was entirely in Malay； as that is the official language here； and in fact the mother…tongue and only language of the Controlleur； who is a native…born half…breed。 The Major's father who was chief before him； wore； I was informed； a strip of bark as his sole costume； and lived in a rude but raised home on lofty poles； and abundantly decorated with human heads。 Of course we were expected； and our dinner was prepared in the best style； but I was assured that the chiefs all take a pride in adopting European customs； and in being able to receive their visitors in a handsome manner。
After dinner and coffee； the Controlleur went on to Tondano； and I strolled about the village waiting for my baggage； which was coming in a bullock…cart； and did not arrive until after midnight。 Supper was very similar to dinner； and on retiring I found an elegant little room with a comfortable bed； gauze curtains with blue and red hangings； and every convenience。 Next morning at sunrise the thermometer in the verandah stood at 69°； which I was told is about the usual lowest temperature at this place； 2；500 feet above the sea。 I had a good breakfast of coffee； eggs； and fresh bread and butter； which I took in the spacious verandah amid