range；〃 and then struck a sunken rock； and had to give up in disgust。
Returns East across Country。 Sending his vessel； the Explorer； back to Fort Yuma under the command of Robinson； its efficient captain； the gallant lieutenant now struck out across country； having received new supplies and his pack…train。 Under the guidance of an intelligent Mohave Indian； Ireteba； they reached Diamond Creek； and there not only came in contact with the Wallapais； but for the first time saw the Big Canyon； as they called the Grand Canyon。 He then pushed on east； entered Havasupai （Cataract） Canyon； visited the Indians there； then made a wide detour to examine the San Francisco peaks； struck east again； crossed the Little Colorado； and reached the province of Tusayan； where dwell the Hopis。 After a short visit there； he crossed south and east to Fort Defiance； and finally returned east with his report。 When the Civil War broke out； Ives joined the Confederate forces and was killed in one of the battles。
Ives's Prediction。 As an evidence of the folly of making predictions in regard to what the future has in store for any region； let me quote one paragraph from Ives which always has amused me：
〃This region can be approached only from the south； and after entering it there is nothing to do but to leave。 Ours has been the first； and will doubtless be the last party of whites； to visit this profitless locality。〃 Yet Ives enjoyed the Canyon； and wrote some truly eloquent descriptions of it。 How surprised he would be could he come back now； approach it from the north； cross the river in a steel cage； and find at El Tovar such an hotel as even the city of Washington never surpassed in Ives's day。 Then； taking the Grand Canyon Railway； he could speed to Williams； and in twenty…four hours reach the Pacific； or in four days the Atlantic。 We march forward with great strides in these days。
Powell's Preparations for His Life…Work。 Even at the time of his writing （1858）； John Wesley Powell was being prepared to bring Ives's words to naught。 Born March 24； 1834； at Mount Morris； Livingston County； New York； he found himself in 1858 at Wheaton； Illinois； engaged in making a conchological collection for the Illinois State Natural History Society。 While engaged in this work； he also secured collections in botany； zoology； and mineralogy。 His mind now opened to perceive that all these sciences were related to the greater science of geology； and thenceforward he declared that this should become his lifework。
Experiences in Civil War。 During the Civil War； he fought with bravery and honor； losing an arm at the battle of Shiloh； April 6； 1862。 When Sherman began his march to the sea； Powell was given command of twenty batteries of artillery。 He served on the staff of General Thomas at the battle of Nashville； and was mustered out in the early summer of 1865。 Even during these exciting years； his beloved science not only never lost its attraction for him； but he utilized every possible opportunity to add to his knowledge。 He made a collection of fossils unearthed in the digging of the Vicksburg trenches； and from the Mississippi swamps gathered land and river shells。 In Illinois； while on detached service； mosses engaged his attention； and he was indefatigable in studying the geology of the region through which his section of the army passed。
Begins Geological Explorations in Colorado。 After the war he declined a lucrative political office to take the chair of geology in the struggling Wesleyan University； of Bloomington； Illinois。 He had married his cousin； Emma Dean； in 1862； and； after a glimpse of the country in 1867； he took her and a party that he had organized； to make geological explorations in Colorado。 This was the beginning of his work that ultimately wrested the secrets from the mysterious canyons of the Colorado River。 This preliminary work led him on； as it were； to the greater work； and in 1869； on May 24； with four boats； the Emma Dean； Kitty Clyde's Sister； Maid of the Canyon； and No…Name； and nine companions； John C。 Sumner； William H。 Dunn； Walter H。 Powell； G。 Y。 Bradley； O。 G。 Howland； Seneca Howland； Frank Goodman； William R。 Hawkins； and Andres Hall； he set forth from Green River City。 The simple records of that trip； and a later one made in 1871…1873 （in which Frederick S。 Dellenbaugh； the author of 〃The Romance of the Colorado River〃； was engaged； read like a romance。 A condensation of them is but an aggravation。 No one interested in the Canyon should neglect to read them； and I am now arranging to republish Powell's original monograph； together with his monumental work on 〃The Canyons of the Colorado〃； the plates of which I purchased at his death for this purpose。
Powell's First Expedition。 In the first expedition； the party was from May 24 to August 30 passing through the Canyon system； from Green River City to the mouth of the Rio Virgen。 On the first of September； four of the men； with a small supply of provisions； resumed their journey on the river to Fort Mohave； while Powell and his brother returned to civilization by way of Salt Lake City。
Second Expedition。 Though chapter nine of Powell's report as published by the Government； speaks of the 〃continuation of the explorations〃 of the Canyon； and gives an account of the studies made in and around the region of the Virgen River； and chapter ten contains Professor A。 H。 Thompson's 〃Report on a Trip to the Mouth of the Dirty Devil River；〃 there is nothing in the volume that suggests the magnitude of the second trip through the Canyon。 This great omission Mr。 Dellenbaugh supplies in his complete narrative before referred to。
Powell's Work on the Canyon Completed。 This time three boats started； the Emma Dean； Nellie Powell； and Canyoncita； manned by S。 V。 Jones； J。 K。 Hilliers； F。 S。 Dellenbaugh； A。 H。 Thompson； J。 F。 Steward； F。 M。 Bishop； F。 C。 A。 Richardson； E。 O。 Beaman； W。 C。 Powell； and A。 J。 Hattan； with Major J。 W。 Powell； of course； as leader and director。 The start was made from Green River City； Wyoming； as before； and the date was May 22； 1871。 On the third of September； the mouth of Kanab Canyon was reached； where； on account of high water； the trip for the time being was abandoned。 The topographical work of the survey of the surrounding country was continued through to the winter of 1873； when the maps were completed； and Powell's great work on the canyons and tributary country practically brought to a close。
Wheeler's Expedition in 1871。 Another interesting Colorado River expedition was that of Captain G。 M。 Wheeler； made in the fall of 1871。 It was doubtless an offset to that of Major Powell； as in those early days there were three separate geographical surveys in the field； working independently and without common guidance。 Hence it was natural that there should have been some degree of rivalry。 Captain Wheeler started up the Colorado River from Camp Mohave； in three boats that had been specially made in San Francisco； and with a barge loaned by the commanding officer at the fort。 Dr。 G。 K。 Gilbert was the geologist of the party。 From September 16 to October 20； they had a difficult； arduous and occasionally thrilling journey； reaching the mouth of Diamond Creek at the latter date。 Diamond Creek is a point on the Canyon which used to be largely visited。 It is reached from Peach Springs； but the scenery is far less impressive than at any of the more accessible points described in this book。
Brown's Unsuccessful Expedition。 Seventeen years after Powell； Frank M。 Brown； a Denver capitalist； determined to survey the canyons with the purpose of building a railway through them to the Gulf of California。 The main start was made May 25； 1889； from the Rio Grande Western's tracks across the Green River； with six boats and sixteen men。 It was a disastrous expedition。 Brown himself lost his life at Soap Creek Rapids； some fifteen miles below Lee's Ferry； and four days later two others were drowned in Marble Canyon。 The expedition was then abandoned； the remnant of the party climbing the Canyon walls； and finding their way back to civilization assisted by the kindly owner of a cattle ranch。
Stanton's Boats Travel Through the Whole Canyon System。 In November of the same year； however； Robert Brewster Stanton； Brown's engineer； observing precautions that Brown had so unfortunately neglected； prepared to continue the exploration。 He had his boats hauled on wagons to the mouth of Crescent Creek near Fremont River； to avoid a repetition of the experiences in Cataract Canyon； and a good start was made。 The party ate Christmas dinner at Lee's Ferry； and a few days later； slightly below where Brown lost his life； the photographer of the expedition fell from a ledge and broke his leg。 With incredible labor； the unfortunate man was got out of the Canyon； four miles in distance and seventeen hundred feet in altitude； on an improvised stretcher； and then taken in a wagon which Stanton had fetched from Lee's Ferry。 The party then went on； entered the Grand Canyon； and reached Diamond Creek March 1； where they remained ten days recuperating。 The last dash was then made in safety。 The boats left the Canyon March 17； 1890； and proceeded easily and gently； until on the twenty…sixth of April tide…water was reached at the mouth of the river on the Gulf of California。
Galloway Repeats Stanton's Exploit。 On January 12； 1897； N。 Galloway； a Mormon trapper； who for years had operated on the Canyons of the Green River； determined to emulate Powell and Stanton。 He made two light boats of rude lumber； covered them fore and aft with canvas； got a companion； William Richmond； and on the day named left a point near the state line of Wyoming and Utah。 On the third of February they emerged from the Canyon。 As they reached the open country below the Grand Wash； they came upon the officers who had found the bodies of two men； killed by Mouse； a Paiuti Indian。 The officers requested the use of Galloway's boats to convey the bodies to the Needles。 This was acceded to； and on the seventeenth of February Needles was reached； the boats sold； and the Mormons returned to their homes。
Making Photographs of Soap Creek Rapids。 Later in the same year； I made the trip by wagon from Winslow； Arizona； over t