water； as I had breakfasted before leaving the camp。 The Turk now showed
me his gun； which he explained was of little use； as he could not afford
a game licence； but he offered to show me a spot where hares were
abundant。 The shooting…season was long since closed； therefore
partridges and francolins were sacred； but I should have had no scruples
in bagging a hare for a stew。 My guide conducted me over very likely
ground down into ravines with bush…covered sides； then upon the
hill…tops； and among patches of cultivation where the hares had played
sad havoc in nibbling the wheat and barley； but we found none。 My dogs
hunted every bush in vain； and the burning sun had dried out every
vestige of scent。 I believe the hares escape the sun by taking refuge
beneath the rocks； otherwise we must have moved at least one or two。 My
guide was much disappointed； but as game was absent he hunted for wild
asparagus； which grew in considerable quantities beneath the thick
clumps of bushes upon the hill…sides。 By the time that we arrived in
camp he had collected sufficient for a good dish。 This variety is not
quite so thick as good cultivated asparagus； but it is superior in
flavour； although slightly bitter。
We rode to Lefka； about three miles distant。 This is one of those happy
lands of Cyprus which is watered with unfailing streams from the Troodos
range； that have enforced prosperity。 The town is important； and is
situated upon the sides of the hills； which form a valley； through
which； in rainy weather； a river flows； at other seasons； like all
Cyprian torrents； the bed is dry。 The houses of Lefka are almost
concealed by the luxuriant foliage of the gardens and orangeries。 We
rode through narrow lanes streaming with water； and shaded with the elm；
ash； maple； and innumerable fruit…trees。 Mills； turned by water； the
masonry of the aqueducts being ornamented with the graceful maiden…hair
ferns； enlivened the otherwise dull lanes by an exhibition of industry。
The orange…trees and lemons were literally overweighted with fruit；
which in some instances overpowered the foliage by a preponderance of
yellow。 Lefka supplies the whole western district with lemons； in
addition to the market of the capital； Lefkosia。 As usual； I observed
that the fruit…trees were ridiculously crowded； thus preventing the
admission of the necessary air and light。 I forbear at present to
describe the fruit； as none existed at this season； excepting oranges
and lemons； and I wish to introduce my readers to every scene and object
precisely as they met my eye in travelling through the country。 The
lemons are some of the best I have ever tasted； but the oranges are full
of seeds； with thick skins； and although juicy and refreshing in this
hot climate； they would be rejected in the English market。
A very cursory view of Lefka was sufficient to explain its agricultural
importance； and to （for the hundredth time） awaken the reflection that
most portions of the island might equal such exceptional prosperity； if
special attention were bestowed upon the development of artificial
irrigation。
On 16th April we left Caravastasi； and rode over almost the worst road；
but one of the most picturesque in Cyprus。 It was a succession of the
steepest ups and downs through and over mountain spurs； to cut off the
promontories which projected into the sea at right angles with our
route。 It seemed impossible that loaded animals should be able to
traverse such steep and dangerous defiles； and I made up my mind that
Iiani's ancient camel would terminate its career； together with that of
our possessions upon its back； by rolling several hundred feet into the
dark angle of some precipitous ravine。 Even Iiani kept awake； and
presently I heard a faint exclamation from behind； and upon turning
round I discovered Lady Baker upon the ground； the saddle having twisted
beneath her mule in descending a steep and rocky gulley； fortunately she
fell upon the wall…side of the path； instead of upon the edge of the
precipice； and she was unhurt。
Although the route was abominable it was most interesting。 As the
drainage of the mountains was at right angles； we crossed a succession
of heights which afforded short glimpses of the sea some 600 feet
beneath； with the perpendicular rock…bound coast below us； and then
alternately descended into the depths of the intervening gullies。 This
peculiarity exhibited to perfection the geological formation。 We had
entered upon trap rocks and the greenstone； all of which showed traces
of copper。 Notwithstanding the wild and dangerous route； every available
plot of ground was cultivated； although no villages were perceptible。
The peasants carried their light ploughs upon donkeys from considerable
distances； and with these exceedingly useful implements they ploughed
inclines that would have been impossible to cultivate with any European
implement except the hoe。 At length we descended to the sea…beach； and
marching through heavy sand for about a mile； we arrived at Pyrgos； our
halting…place； twelve miles from Caravastasi。
This is one of the wildest portions of Cyprus。 There is no village； but
the position is simply marked by the presence of one building above the
sea…beach； which has been a depot for the spars and poles of pine that
have periodically been delivered from the mountains by the torrents；
when heavy rains have swollen them sufficiently to enable them to force
the timber towards the sea。 As the mountains upon this portion of the
coast descend in many places actually to the shore； while in no places
are they more than half a mile distant； the rivulets are numerous； as
there is no time； or area； sufficient for their absorption by the soil。
Within a hundred and fifty paces of the timber store beautiful streams
of clear water issued from the ground in three different places； which
converged into a brook abounding with water…cresses； and this； after
passing through a small and thick jungle of tamarisk…bushes； formed a
pool above the sea…beach which overflowed upon the shingle； and met the
waves。 We ascended the stream for a short distance； until； tempted by
two or three large plane…trees； we halted for luncheon beneath their
shade。 The river； which occasionally flooded sufficiently to bring down
heavy timber when felled among the mountains； flowed through an
extremely rich but narrow valley； which extended into a glen between
their precipitous slopes until it became a mere ravine。 The mass of
mountains in this district； which form a succession of wild and
impassable steeps； is marked upon Kiepert's map as 〃unexplored。〃 They
were originally pine…forests； but the destruction of timber has been
carried to such an excess that comparatively few trees remain。 With my
glass I could distinguish large trunks that lay rotting upon the ground；
where they had pitched among the stems； and roots of trees that had been
already felled； these had been rolled from the steep heights above； but
having been caught in their descent to the torrent below by the opposing
stumps； they had been abandoned； and other trees had been felled in
their stead； where the inclination was more favourable for their
transport。
This portion of the coast should be thoroughly explored by practical
miners； as it is rich in minerals。 I procured some fine specimens of
pyrites of copper； which the natives mistook for silver； and should a
mineralogical investigation be made by the authorities； I feel sure that
the metallic wealth of Cyprus will be discovered between Caravastasi and
Poli…ton…Krysokhus。
It was late before our baggage animals appeared； and when they at length
arrived； Iiani's venerable camel was missing。 It appeared that this
worn…out old creature had been performing acrobatic feats in tumbling
throughout the difficult journey； and had rolled； together with its
load； down several places that had threatened its destruction。 It had
delayed the march several hours； as it had been many times released from
difficulties by unloading； reloading； and dividing the heavier portions
of baggage among the other camels which received a smaller pay。 At
length； upon arriving upon the deep sand of the beach； about a mile
distant； it had fallen down； and given up everything except the ghost。
It was a natural annoyance to the owners of the other camels that Iiani
should be paid highly for a useless animal； while they had to carry its
load divided among them assisted by a division of the smaller weights
among the servants' riding mules。 The evening was passed in grumbling：
everybody was in a bad humour。 It was declared impossible to pitch the
tent upon the sandy beach by the pool of fresh water； as there was no
holding…ground for the tent…pegs。 I quickly instructed them in making
faggots of tamarisk…boughs which； tied to the ropes and buried in the
sand； were much more secure than pegs in the hardest soil； and the tent
was at length arranged。 A small species of curlew tempted its fate by
visiting the fresh…water margin just before our dinner…hour； I bagged
it； and as the cook was in a bad humour； I made a fire of driftwood；
with which the beach was strewed； and when the glowing embers had
succeeded to the flame and formed a red…hot heap； I cut two forked
sticks； which； placed on either side upright in the sand； supported my
bird upon a long skewer of green tamarisk…wood。 A little salt； pepper；
and a smear of butter occasionally； produced a result that would have
beaten Christo's best attempts。
On the following morning we were all once more in good humour； the old
camel had not died； but had been brought into camp late at night。 It now
formed the object for everybody's joke； and its owner liani was
recommended to 〃try and sell it；〃 or 〃to make it a present to a friend；〃
or 〃to ride it himself；〃 the latter course would have been a deserved
punishment。 Iiani escaped further remarks by jumping upon his mule and
riding ahead； and we followed our guide without delay along the deep
sandy beach。
We rode for fourteen miles along cliffs bordering the sea； with the deep
hollows occasioned by the natural drainage causing a continual series of
ups and downs； which reminded me forcibly of the