I have met with more kindness； hospitality； and rational
entertainment； in a few weeks； than ever I received in any other
country during the whole course of my life。 Perhaps； the
gratitude excited by these benefits may interfere with the
impartiality of my remarks； for a man is as apt to be
prepossessed by particular favours as to be prejudiced by private
motives of disgust。 If I am partial； there is； at least； some
merit in my conversion from illiberal prejudices which had grown
up with my constitution。
The first impressions which an Englishman receives in this
country； will not contribute to the removal of his prejudices；
because he refers every thing he sees to a comparison with the
same articles in his own country； and this comparison is
unfavourable to Scotland in all its exteriors； such as the face
of the country in respect to cultivation； the appearance of the
bulk of the people； and the language of conversation in general。
I am not so far convinced by Mr Lismahago's arguments； but that
I think the Scots would do well； for their own sakes； to adopt
the English idioms and pronunciation； those of them especially；
who are resolved to push their fortunes in South…Britain I know；
by experience； how easily an Englishman is influenced by the ear；
and how apt he is to laugh； when he hears his own language spoken
with a foreign or provincial accent I have known a member of the
house of commons speak with great energy and precision； without
being able to engage attention； because his observations were
made in the Scotch dialect； which （no offence to lieutenant
Lismahago） certainly gives a clownish air even to sentiments of
the greatest dignity and decorum。 I have declared my opinion on
this head to some of the most sensible men of this country；
observing； at the same time； that if they would employ a few
natives of England to teach the pronunciation of our vernacular
tongue； in twenty years there would be no difference； in point of
dialect； between the youth of Edinburgh and of London。
The civil regulations of this kingdom and metropolis are taken
from very different models from those of England； except in a few
particular establishments； the necessary consequences of the
union。 Their college of justice is a bench of great dignity；
filled with judges of character and ability。 I have heard some
causes tried before this venerable tribunal； and was very much
pleased with the pleadings of their advocates； who are by no
means deficient either in argument or elocution。 The Scottish
legislation is founded； in a great measure； on the civil law；
consequently； their proceedings vary from those of the English
tribunals； but； I think； they have the advantage of us in their
method of examining witnesses apart； and in the constitution of
their jury； by which they certainly avoid the evil which I
mentioned in my last from Lismahago's observation。
The university of Edinburgh is supplied with excellent professors
in all the sciences； and the medical school； in particular； is
famous all over Europe。 The students of this art have the best
opportunity of learning it to perfection； in all its branches； as
there are different courses for the theory of medicine and the
practice of medicine； for anatomy； chemistry； botany； and the
materia medica； over and above those of mathematics and
experimental philosophy； and all these are given by men of
distinguished talents。 What renders this part of education still
more complete； is the advantage of attending the infirmary； which
is the best instituted charitable foundation that I ever knew。
Now we are talking of charities； here are several hospitals；
exceedingly well endowed； and maintained under admirable
regulations； and these are not only useful； but ornamental to the
city。 Among these； I shall only mention the general work…house；
in which all the poor； not otherwise provided for； are employed；
according to their different abilities； with such judgment and
effect； that they nearly maintain themselves by their labour； and
there is not a beggar to be seen within the precincts of this
metropolis。 It was Glasgow that set the example of this
establishment； about thirty years ago。 Even the kirk of
Scotland； so long reproached with fanaticism and canting； abounds
at present with ministers celebrated for their learning； and
respectable for their moderation。 I have heard their sermons
with equal astonishment and pleasure。 The good people of
Edinburgh no longer think dirt and cobwebs essential to the house
of God。 Some of their churches have admitted such ornaments as
would have excited sedition； even in England； a little more than
a century ago； and Psalmody is here practised and taught by a
professor from the cathedral of Durham： I should not be
surprised； in a few years； to hear it accompanied with an organ。
Edinburgh is a hot…bed of genius。 I have had the good fortune to
be made acquainted with many authors of the first distinction；
such as the two Humes； Robertson； Smith； Wallace； Blair；
Ferguson； Wilkie； &c。 and I have found them all as agreeable in
conversation as they are instructive and entertaining in their
writings。 These acquaintances I owe to the friendship of Dr
Carlyle； who wants nothing but inclination to figure with the
rest upon paper。 The magistracy of Edinburgh is changed every
year by election； and seems to be very well adapted both for
state and authority。 The lord provost is equal in dignity to the
lord mayor of London； and the four bailies are equivalent to the
rank of aldermen。 There is a dean of guild； who takes cognizance
of mercantile affairs； a treasurer； a town…clerk； and the council
is composed of deacons； one of whom is returned every year； in
rotation； as representative of every company of artificers or
handicraftsmen。 Though this city； from the nature of its
situation； can never be made either very convenient or very
cleanly； it has； nevertheless； an air of magnificence that
commands respect。 The castle is an instance of the sublime in
scite and architecture。 Its fortifications are kept in good
order； and there is always in it a garrison of regular soldiers；
which is relieved every year； but it is incapable of sustaining a
siege carried on according to the modern operations of war。 The
castle hill； which extends from the outward gate to the upper end
of the high street； is used as a public walk for the citizens；
and commands a prospect； equally extensive and delightful； over
the county of Fife； on the other side of the Frith； and all along
the sea…coast； which is covered with a succession of towns that
would seem to indicate a considerable share of commerce； but； if
the truth must be told； these towns have been falling to decay
ever since the union； by which the Scots were in a great measure
deprived of their trade with France。 The palace of Holyrood…house
is a jewel in architecture； thrust into a hollow where it
cannot be seen； a situation which was certainly not chosen by the
ingenious architect； who must have been confined to the site of
the old palace； which was a convent。 Edinburgh is considerably
extended on the south side； where there are divers little elegant
squares built in the English manner； and the citizens have
planned some improvements on the north； which； when put in
execution； will add greatly to the beauty and convenience of this
capital。
The sea…port is Leith； a flourishing town； about a mile from the
city； in the harbour of which I have seen above one hundred ships
lying all together。 You must know； I had the curiosity to cross
the Frith in a passage boat； and stayed two days in Fife； which
is remarkably fruitful in corn； and exhibits a surprising number
of fine seats； elegantly built； and magnificently furnished。
There is an incredible number of noble houses in every part of
Scotland that I have seen。 Dalkeith； Pinkie； Yester； and lord
Hopton's ＇Hopetoun's＇； all of them within four or five miles of
Edinburgh； are princely palaces； in every one of which a
sovereign might reside at his case。 I suppose the Scots affect
these monuments of grandeur。 If I may be allowed to mingle
censure with my remarks upon a people I revere； I must observe；
that their weak side seems to be vanity。 I am afraid that even
their hospitality is not quite free of ostentation。 I think I
have discovered among them uncommon pains taken to display their
fine linen； of which； indeed； they have great plenty； their
furniture； plate； housekeeping； and variety of wines； in which
article； it must be owned； they are profuse； if not prodigal A
burgher of Edinburgh； not content to vie with a citizen of
London； who has ten times his fortune； must excel him in the
expence as well as elegance of his entertainments。
Though the villas of the Scotch nobility and gentry have
generally an air of grandeur and state； I think their gardens and
parks are not comparable to those of England； a circumstance the
more remarkable； as I was told by the ingenious Mr Phillip Miller
of Chelsea； that almost all the gardeners of South…Britain were
natives of Scotland。 The verdure of this country is not equal to
that of England。 The pleasure…grounds are； in my opinion； not so
well laid out according to the genius loci； nor are the lawns；
and walks； and hedges kept in such delicate order。 The trees are
planted in prudish rows； which have not such an agreeable natural
effect； as when they are thrown into irregular groupes； with
intervening glades； and firs； which they generally raise around
their houses； look dull and funereal in the summer season。 I
must confess； indeed； that they yield serviceable timber； and
good shelter against the northern blasts； that they grow and
thrive in the most barren soil； and continually perspire a fine
balsam of turpentine； which must render the air very salutary and
sanative to lungs of a tender texture。
Tabby and I have been both frightened in our return by sea from
the coast of Fife She was afraid of drowning； and I of catching
cold； in consequence of being drenched with sea…water； but my
fears as well as hers； have been happily disappointed。 She is now
in perfect health； I wish I could say the same of Liddy