fears as well as hers； have been happily disappointed。 She is now
in perfect health； I wish I could say the same of Liddy
Something uncommon is the matter with that poor girl； her colour
fades； her appetite fails； and her spirits flag She is become
moping and melancholy； and is often found in tears Her brother
suspects internal uneasiness on account of Wilson； and denounces
vengeance against that adventurer。 She was； it seems； strongly
affected at the ball by the sudden appearance of one Mr Gordon；
who strongly resembles the said Wilson； but I am rather
suspicious that she caught cold by being overheated with
dancing。 I have consulted Dr Gregory； an eminent physician of an
amiable character； who advises the highland air； and the use of
goat…milk whey； which； surely； cannot have a bad effect upon a
patient who was born and bred among the mountains of Wales The
doctors opinion is the more agreeable； as we shall find those
remedies in the very place which I proposed as the utmost extent
of our expedition I mean the borders of Argyle。
Mr Smollett； one of the judges of the commissary court； which is
now sitting； has very kindly insisted upon our lodging at his
country…house； on the banks of Lough…Lomond； about fourteen miles
beyond Glasgow。 For this last city we shall set out in two days；
and take Stirling in our way； well provided with recommendations
from our friends at Edinburgh； whom； I protest； I shall leave
with much regret。 I am so far from thinking it any hardship to
live in this country； that； if I was obliged to lead a town life；
Edinburgh would certainly be the headquarters of
Yours always；
MATT。 BRAMBLE
EDIN。； August 8。
To Sir WATKIN PHILLIPS； Bart。 of Jesus college； Oxon。
DEAR KNIGHT；
I am now little short of the Ultima Thule； if this appellation
properly belongs to the Orkneys or Hebrides。 These last are now
lying before me； to the amount of some hundreds； scattered up and
down the Deucalidonian sea； affording the most picturesque and
romantic prospect I ever beheld I write this letter in a
gentleman's house； near the town of Inverary which may be deemed
the capital of the West Highlands； famous for nothing so much as
for the stately castle begun； and actually covered in by the late
duke of Argyle； at a prodigious expence Whether it will ever be
completely finished is a question。
But； to take things in order We left Edinburgh ten days ago； and
the further North we proceed； we find Mrs Tabitha the less
manageable； so that her inclinations are not of the nature of the
loadstone； they point not towards the pole。 What made her leave
Edinburgh with reluctance at last； if we may believe her own
assertions； was a dispute which she left unfinished with Mr
Moffat； touching the eternity of hell torments。 That gentleman；
as he advanced in years； began to be sceptical on this head；
till； at length； he declared open war against the common
acceptation of the word eternal。 He is now persuaded； that
eternal signifies no more than an indefinite number of years； and
that the most enormous sinner may be quit for nine millions； nine
hundred thousand； nine hundred and ninety…nine years of hell…
fire； which term or period； as he very well observes； forms but
an inconsiderable drop； as it were； in the ocean of eternity For
this mitigation he contends； as a system agreeable to the ideas
of goodness and mercy； which we annex to the supreme Being Our
aunt seemed willing to adopt this doctrine in favour of the
wicked； but he hinted that no person whatever was so righteous as
to be exempted entirely from punishment in a future state； and
that the most pious Christian upon earth might think himself very
happy to get off for a fast of seven or eight thousand years in
the midst of fire and brimstone。 Mrs Tabitha revolted at this
dogma； which filled her at once with horror and indignation She
had recourse to the opinion of Humphry Clinker； who roundly
declared it was the popish doctrine of purgatory； and quoted
scripture in defence of the fire everlasting； prepared for the
devil and his angels The reverend master Mackcorkendal； and all
the theologists and saints of that persuasion were consulted； and
some of them had doubts about the matter； which doubts and
scruples had begun to infect our aunt； when we took our departure
from Edinburgh。
We passed through Linlithgow； where there was an elegant royal
palace； which is now gone to decay； as well as the town itself
This too is pretty much the case with Stirling； though it still
boasts of a fine old castle in which the kings of Scotland were
wont to reside in their minority But Glasgow is the pride of
Scotland； and； indeed； it might very well pass for an elegant and
flourishing city in any part of Christendom。 There we had the
good fortune to be received into the house of Mr Moore； an
eminent surgeon； to whom we were recommended by one of our
friends at Edinburgh； and； truly； he could not have done us more
essential service Mr Moore is a merry facetious companion；
sensible and shrewd； with a considerable fund of humour； and his
wife an agreeable woman； well bred； kind； and obliging。 Kindness；
which I take to be the essence of good…nature and humanity； is
the distinguishing characteristic of the Scotch ladies in their
own country Our landlord shewed us every thing； and introduced
us to all the world at Glasgow； where； through his
recommendation； we were complimented with the freedom of the
town。 Considering the trade and opulence of this place； it cannot
but abound with gaiety and diversions。 Here is a great number of
young fellows that rival the youth of the capital in spirit and
expence； and I was soon convinced； that all the female beauties
of Scotland were not assembled at the hunters ball in Edinburgh
The town of Glasgow flourishes in learning as well as in
commerce Here is an university； with professors in all the
different branches of science； liberally endowed； and judiciously
chosen It was vacation time when I passed； so that I could not
entirely satisfy my curiosity； but their mode of education is
certainly preferable to ours in some respects。 The students are
not left to the private instruction of tutors； but taught in
public schools or classes； each science by its particular
professor or regent。
My uncle is in raptures with Glasgow He not only visited all the
manufactures of the place； but made excursions all round to
Hamilton； Paisley； Renfrew； and every other place within a dozen
miles； where there was any thing remarkable to be seen in art or
nature。 I believe the exercise； occasioned by those jaunts； was
of service to my sister Liddy； whose appetite and spirits begin
to revive Mrs Tabitha displayed her attractions as usual； and
actually believed she had entangled one Mr Maclellan； a rich
inkle…manufacturer； in her snares； but when matters came to an
explanation； it appeared that his attachment was altogether
spiritual； founded upon an intercourse of devotion； at the
meeting of Mr John Wesley； who； in the course of his evangelical
mission； had come hither in person At length； we set out for the
banks of Lough…Lomond； passing through the little borough of
Dumbarton； or （as my uncle will have it） Dunbritton； where there
is a castle； more curious than any thing of the kind I had ever
seen。 It is honoured with a particular description by the elegant
Buchanan； as an arx inexpugnabilis； and； indeed； it must have
been impregnable by the antient manner of besieging。 It is a rock
of considerable extent； rising with a double top； in an angle
formed by the confluence of two rivers； the Clyde and the Leven；
perpendicular and inaccessible on all sides； except in one place
where the entrance is fortified； and there is no rising ground in
the neighbourhood from whence it could be damaged by any kind of
battery。
From Dumbarton； the West Highlands appear in the form of huge；
dusky mountains； piled one over another； but this prospect is not
at all surprising to a native of Glamorgan We have fixed our
headquarters at Cameron； a very neat country…house belonging to
commissary Smollet； where we found every sort of accommodation we
could desire It is situated like a Druid's temple； in a grove of
oak； close by the side of Lough…Lomond； which is a surprising
body of pure transparent water； unfathomably deep in many places；
six or seven miles broad； four and twenty miles in length；
displaying above twenty green islands； covered with wood； some of
them cultivated for corn； and many of them stocked with red deer
They belong to different gentlemen； whose seats are scattered
along the banks of the lake； which are agreeably romantic beyond
all conception。 My uncle and I have left the women at Cameron； as
Mrs Tabitha would by no means trust herself again upon the water；
and to come hither it was necessary to cross a small inlet of the
sea； in an open ferry…boat This country appears more and more
wild and savage the further we advance； and the People are as
different from the Low…land Scots； in their looks； garb； and
language； as the mountaineers of Brecknock are from the
inhabitants of Herefordshire。
When the Lowlanders want to drink a chearupping…cup； they go to
the public house； called the Change…house； and call for a chopine
of two…penny； which is a thin； yeasty beverage； made of malt； not
quite so strong as the table…beer of England； This is brought in
a pewter stoop； shaped like a skittle； from whence it is emptied
into a quaff； that is； a curious cup made of different pieces of
wood； such as box and ebony； cut into little staves； joined
alternately； and secured with delicate hoops； having two cars or
handles It holds about a gill； is sometimes tipt round the mouth
with silver； and has a plate of the same metal at bottom； with
the landlord's cypher engraved。 The Highlanders； on the
contrary； despise this liquor； and regale themselves with whisky；
a malt spirit； as strong as geneva； which they swallow in great
quantities； without any signs of inebriation。 They are used to it
from the cradle； and find it an excellent preservative against
the winter cold； which must be extreme on these mountains I am
told that i